removing engine and transmission

[FrankWest]

Is removing and engine and transmission and then reinstalling it back into the car a major tweaking deal or is it a just unbolt lifet then drop into place and rebolt.
I have never done it before but contemplating because if the work I have to do on my engine, may be easier doing it in a rotating motor mount stand rather than under my car! Don;t know if it is a real art to drop a motor back in a get everything aligned properly? Please offer suggestions.

[Tom Wesenberg]

What work are you going to do?
I don't think it's such a bad job to remove the headlamp bar, radiator and engine. Be sure to remove the throttle cross shaft before moving the engine. I always remove just the engine and leave the tranny in place, even if both need to be worked on.

If the body is off, then I'd remove the engine and tranny as one piece.

[1930artdeco]

Two things I can think of:

-Removing the steering box/wheel as it is in the way.
-I "think" the engine/tranny have to come straight forward then out so the u-joint clears? I don't know how much of an angle you have to play with.

Mike

[Domino]

I have done it multiple times and it wasn't difficult at all. In fact it was basically a Saturday job assuming you have an engine lift, etc.

[Tom Endy]

If you have solid rear motor mounts you may need a frame spreader. You might get it out without one, but getting the engine back in may be difficult.

Tom Endy

[Dave in MN]

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Frank,
Any serious amount of work on an engine is vastly easier on a rotating stand. As suggested, if it is only the engine you need to work on, leave the transmission/bell housing assembly in place. To make things easier on yourself, remove the front bumper...it only takes a couple minutes and you won't have to step over it multiple times during the removal/installation. I usually remove and install engines by myself, so I also remove the light bar. It is possible to remove and install the engine with the bar in place but it requires the engine being placed within some tight quarters. If you leave the bar in place...make sure you pad it well to avoid scratching it as the engine is moved over it. You do not have a clearance problem to the steering gear if you leave the bell housing and tranny in the car. When putting it back in, place a floor jack under the radius ball and slightly raise it and the attached transmission to allow a better angle to line up the input shaft of the tranny and the bearing in the flywheel. Cut the heads off two 3/8" x 4" bolts, round the cut side, and screw them into the flywheel housing adjacent to the two rear engine mounts. (See photo below) These will keep the bell housing and flywheel housings aligned as the two are coming together. As you are bringing the two halves together check that there is equal margin between the two housings...on the sides and top and bottom...all equal. It will not come together unless you get it aligned. You will need to raise or lower the floor jack or the motor to accomplish this. When the housings are about 1.75" apart, you will likely need to rotate the crankshaft or the input shaft of the transmission to allow the splines on the input shaft to mate with the clutch disk. I usually rotate the crankshaft with a socket on the ratchet nut as I am applying force from the front of the engine and wiggling it around to get the splined shaft to slide in and the flywheel housing between the motor mounts. Have at it!
Good Day!

[BudP]

I recently did this. Pulling the engine was not difficult. Getting the spline alignment correct on putting it back was difficult and I had to ask for assistance from club members. Wish I had thought of Dave's approach about rotating the crankshaft. While you have it out, check the rubbers on the rear mounts and the set-up on the front mounts. It's not expensive to replace them. I found a 1950's Western Auto beehive set-up on the front mount.

[Purdy Swoft]

Installing the new rear motor mount pads just makes the job harder. If the pads are replaced a frame spreader or special jack setup will be a must.

[Brentwood Bob]

To rotate the front of the transmission to hit the pressure plate consider lifting one rear wheel just enough to be able to turn the rear wheel. I have not tried dave's method of turning the crank shaft. I use this mainly because my father taught it to me.

[700rpm]

Excellent procedure advice from Dave in MN.

[James Rogers]

Originally Posted by 1930artdeco

Two things I can think of:

-Removing the steering box/wheel as it is in the way.
-I "think" the engine/tranny have to come straight forward then out so the u-joint clears? I don't know how much of an angle you have to play with.

Mike

Both wrong. I never remove the steering box, even on show cars. I also,don't pull the motor with the transmission attached. This way I don't have to remove that aggravating light bar. Once the engine is out, just drop the tranny to the floor and slide it out from under the car. If you are not doing any work on the tranny just leave it in the car.

[Brendan]

I had my motor out in 45 min, with the help of a friend

[Terry,NJ]

My memory is kaput these days but I seem to recall putting a short length of dogchain under the trans so it wouldn't fall on the ground after it was disconnected from the engine. Check my pics under my profile, "My 30 coupe"
Terry

[Purdy Swoft]

I've never removed the steering in the process of removing a model A engine. I can't think of any reason that removing the steering would be necessary in this procedure. when I was a teenager, I thought that it was easier to remove and replace the engine with the transmission connected . When I got older and a better mechanic with more tools, unless the transmission needs to also be removed, I just leave it in place. This saves the aggravation of having to remove the pedals , transmission tower and universal joint housing. I place a floor jack under the wishbome connection after removing the bell housing bolts and this holds the transmission and bell housing from droping when I pull the engine.

[Ford1931]

I am changing both the motor and transmission. Can I install both together with out removing the steering box and column? Or do I put the transmission in separate and then install the engine. 1931 Slant Window Fourdoor.

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by Ford1931

I am changing both the motor and transmission. Can I install both together with out removing the steering box and column? Or do I put the transmission in separate and then install the engine. 1931 Slant Window Fourdoor.

Last time I put the motor and tranny in the coupe, I had the tranny attached to the motor, took off the peddles and tranny top, did not remove the steering box and column and it went in OK. But I did have a good lifter for the engine and tranny which gave me the ability to move things around a bit.

Another comment. When taking the engine out or putting it back in, be sure you lift the front of the engine high enough so the crank case pulley clears the front cross member or you end up with a broken crank pulley. Don't need to ask me how I know this. Been there done that.

[Purdy Swoft]

Why would anybody think that the steering column would need to be removed??? several people on this thread have already said that there is no need to remove the steering column.

[James Rogers]

Originally Posted by Ford1931

I am changing both the motor and transmission. Can I install both together with out removing the steering box and column? Or do I put the transmission in separate and then install the engine. 1931 Slant Window Fourdoor.

Leave the dam steering alone when removing the motor or the transmission. You don't need to bother it.

[Wooden wheel]

Yes leave the steering. Be sure to position the UJ gaskets before you set the engine/ gearbox in their final position My engine crane had a levelling bar which made the job very easy and I was able to keep things in control. Best of luck.
Happy motoring

[1931 flamingo]

FrankWest: What car type/model are you working on as you've got threads going here and on the EV8 forum??

Paul in CT

[nhusa]

Originally Posted by Terry,NJ

My memory is kaput these days but I seem to recall putting a short length of dogchain under the trans so it wouldn't fall on the ground after it was disconnected from the engine. Check my pics under my profile, "My 30 coupe"
Terry

Terry - Thanks for the heads up about the chain. I am getting ready to remove the motor from MY 31 TS and was wondering how I was going to support the transmission after removal so I could free up the floor jack for other projects.

[Purdy Swoft]

One advantage of the floor jack is that you can raise or lower the transmission as needed to make reinstallation of the engine easier. Years ago I didn't even have a floor jack.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I have used a short 2 x 4 and a ratchet strap to hold the tranny, and this works very well. A year ago I fianally built a tranny hoist, and find this the best.

[nhusa]

Thanks - I will use the Jack during the removal and install process. All I needed was a way to support the transmission in between.

I considered some blocks of wood but that would stop me from moving the car around if needed.

BTW it is on 4 wheel dollies to make it easy to move in the garage.


Tom Nice rig but it is a bit too complicated for my simple mind!


I assume that the frame spreader is because the rear motor mounts fold in a bit over time and can be made with a piece of sturdy pipe and some good sized bolts, nuts and washers if needed - or even machine leveling legs.

[Dave in MN]

If you do not plan to remove the bellhousing and transmission, the transmission and bellhousing will hang from the torque tube without damaging anything. I do this all the time...just use some care when working on it to avoid damage. It needs to be lifted when installing the engine. If you are concerned with the unsupported weight, leave the front radius ball attached to the bellhousing and the weight will be divided to lessen the stress on the universal joint housing.
Good Day!

[CarlG]

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This is what I use: Adjusts fore & aft; side to side; tilts right & left; up and down.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I've only needed to spread the frame a slight amount twice, so there's a good chance you won't need it unless you install new rubber pads on the motor mounts, and they are too thick. The pads I bought from Snyder's are the correct thickness.

[CarlG]

I used the 4" bolt with the head cut off and tapered trick a couple of weeks ago. I did have a friend helping me who has done dozens of Model A engines. He said that little trick made my engine the easiest of any he has done.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by CarlG

I used the 4" bolt with the head cut off and tapered trick a couple of weeks ago. I did have a friend helping me who has done dozens of Model A engines. He said that little trick made my engine the easiest of any he has done.

I've done several engines alone with little problem. I went to help a friend with his and he handed me some threaded rod pieces.

I'll tell you, like above, it was the easiest of any one I've ever done.
I have one suggestion to make it even better, in the end that sticks out, cut a slot or grind a hex to aid in removal of the studs in case the engine twists a little binding the studs.