The Ford Barn

Art Bjornestad · 10-21-2014, 06:01 PM

I used a Dremel tool to clean the crack a bit more and used A LOT of JB Weld and held it in place with a bit of masking tape......7 years so far.

mshmodela · 10-21-2014, 06:04 PM

I had a crack near the front of the block and used JB weld high heat.. So far holding well.. Like real welding, getting the area clean and to pure metal is 90% of the work.

J and M Machine · 10-21-2014, 06:16 PM

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/album....ictureid=25146

Professionally done this is what the crack repair will look like.
Have to wonder if they missed this crack what about the others?
http://www.jandm-machine.com/metalStitching.html

Vin-tin · 10-21-2014, 06:52 PM

Lee, before you do anything, i'd contact the engine re-builder and ask for a full / partial refund. You probably wont get any, but it doesn't hurt to try.
Then do as everyone is saying and "V" the crack, clean it, and use regular JB weld.
It won't set up very fast and tends to want to sag and run out. Just keep putting it back in there until it starts to stiffen up some. Then take some 80grit sand paper and place the "grit" side against the epoxy and hold in place until hard. The sand paper will give you a texture to match the casting marks on the block.
I did this exact repair as yours on a '29 Tudor I sold a while back, and you could not even tell there was ever a crack.
Good luck. Dave.

tbirdtbird · 10-21-2014, 06:59 PM

and of course you told the buyer

Vin-tin · 10-21-2014, 07:02 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

and of course you told the buyer

Most certainly!

Mikeinnj · 10-21-2014, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rocket1

AND,let that professional know he rebuilt a cracked block!!

Never ass-ume anything !

Didn't leak for 1100 miles.

Perhaps it was not cracked when it was rebuilt.

Maby it was magnafluxed and was OK.

Things can happen during installation.

Did it freeze up? Overheat ?

This cast iron is 86 years old !

CWPASADENA · 10-21-2014, 10:44 PM

This is a common place for a crack. Usually caused by freezing.

I have had very good luck when an engine is in the car using K W Ceramic Block Seal. Follow the directions exactly and I have an old radiator I temporarily install as it may partially coat the inside of a good radiator. Thru the years, I have use it many times and most of the time I have had good results.

If for some reason it does not work, you can always try J B Weld or pinning etc.

If the engine was out of the car and on the stand, I may take a different approach but in the car, I would first try K W Ceramic Block Seal.

Again, JMO

Chris W.

Lee Mitch · 10-23-2014, 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikeinnj

Never ass-ume anything !

Didn't leak for 1100 miles.

Perhaps it was not cracked when it was rebuilt.

Maby it was magnafluxed and was OK.

Things can happen during installation.

Did it freeze up? Overheat ?

This cast iron is 86 years old !

Really? You should re-read my post. Do you rebuild engines by-chance?

Tom Wesenberg · 10-23-2014, 07:12 AM

It seems to be an old freeze crack that has opened up. I would use a Dremel with a small diameter bit to clean the crack, and then fill it with JB Weld. I've read several success stories using this method, and if it did fail, then you can always still drill, thread and pin it.

eagle · 10-23-2014, 08:54 AM

I had a T head with a nasty 5 inch long crack across the top. V'd it out a bit, JB welded it, then when cured used a grinder and then sander to shape it. After it was painted it was impossible to see and never leaked again.

Lee Mitch · 10-23-2014, 09:32 AM

Thanks to everyone! It looks like JB weld is the first course of action. I will re-post if it doesn't work. As usual Tom W., I believe you are spot on, but we will never know and it doesn't really matter at this point- just want to drive my A. : )

Mikeinnj · 10-23-2014, 12:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lee Mitch

Really? You should re-read my post. Do you rebuild engines by-chance?

Yes Really !

I do re-build engines, but not by-chance. I use precision.

Perhaps you should ask your "professional rebuilder" if he magnafluxed the block.....

BILL WILLIAMSON · 10-23-2014, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikeinnj

Yes Really !

I do re-build engines, but not by-chance. I use precision.

Perhaps you should ask your "professional rebuilder" if he magnafluxed the block.....

Maybe he did & just didn't see it, in such an out of the way place.
Have you ever made a mistake?--------I've made MANY!
Bill W.

Mikeinnj · 10-24-2014, 12:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Maybe he did & just didn't see it, in such an out of the way place.
Have you ever made a mistake?--------I've made MANY!
Bill W.

Yes Bill I have however, this is not "in such an out of the way place" and is one of the first places an "experienced rebuilder" should check for cracks.

As was said by "Tbirdbird" in comment # 10..." common location when antifreeze is overlooked ".....

BILL WILLIAMSON · 10-24-2014, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikeinnj

Yes Bill I have however, this is not "in such an out of the way place" and is one of the first places an "experienced rebuilder" should check for cracks.

As was said by "Tbirdbird" in comment # 10..." common location when antifreeze is overlooked ".....

GOOD point, Mike, I would have been ticked off, also. It doesn't seem common to see freeze cracks here, only hot cracks!
Bill W.

10-21-2014, 06:01 PM	#21
Art Bjornestad Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Westlake Village, CA Posts: 477	Re: crack in block I used a Dremel tool to clean the crack a bit more and used A LOT of JB Weld and held it in place with a bit of masking tape......7 years so far.

10-21-2014, 06:04 PM	#22
mshmodela Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Cleveland, Ohio Posts: 2,763	Re: crack in block I had a crack near the front of the block and used JB weld high heat.. So far holding well.. Like real welding, getting the area clean and to pure metal is 90% of the work. __________________ -Mike Late 31' Ford Model A Tudor, Miss Daisy I don't work on cars --I'm learning about my Model A. Cleveland, Ohio

10-21-2014, 06:16 PM	#23
J and M Machine Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: 40 Mt.Vickery Rd. Southborough,MA 508-460-0733 Posts: 352	Re: crack in block http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/album....ictureid=25146 Professionally done this is what the crack repair will look like. Have to wonder if they missed this crack what about the others? http://www.jandm-machine.com/metalStitching.html

10-21-2014, 06:52 PM	#24
Vin-tin Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Eastern Pa. Posts: 543	Re: crack in block Lee, before you do anything, i'd contact the engine re-builder and ask for a full / partial refund. You probably wont get any, but it doesn't hurt to try. Then do as everyone is saying and "V" the crack, clean it, and use regular JB weld. It won't set up very fast and tends to want to sag and run out. Just keep putting it back in there until it starts to stiffen up some. Then take some 80grit sand paper and place the "grit" side against the epoxy and hold in place until hard. The sand paper will give you a texture to match the casting marks on the block. I did this exact repair as yours on a '29 Tudor I sold a while back, and you could not even tell there was ever a crack. Good luck. Dave. __________________ 1929 Coupe 1930 Coupe 1935 Ford 5 window coupe

10-21-2014, 06:59 PM	#25
tbirdtbird BANNED Join Date: May 2012 Location: inside your RAM Posts: 3,134	Re: crack in block and of course you told the buyer __________________ '31 180A

10-21-2014, 10:44 PM	#28
CWPASADENA Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: PASADENA, CA Posts: 1,882	Re: crack in block This is a common place for a crack. Usually caused by freezing. I have had very good luck when an engine is in the car using K W Ceramic Block Seal. Follow the directions exactly and I have an old radiator I temporarily install as it may partially coat the inside of a good radiator. Thru the years, I have use it many times and most of the time I have had good results. If for some reason it does not work, you can always try J B Weld or pinning etc. If the engine was out of the car and on the stand, I may take a different approach but in the car, I would first try K W Ceramic Block Seal. Again, JMO Chris W.

10-23-2014, 07:12 AM	#30
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: crack in block It seems to be an old freeze crack that has opened up. I would use a Dremel with a small diameter bit to clean the crack, and then fill it with JB Weld. I've read several success stories using this method, and if it did fail, then you can always still drill, thread and pin it.

10-23-2014, 08:54 AM	#31
eagle Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Eagle Bend, MN Posts: 2,025	Re: crack in block I had a T head with a nasty 5 inch long crack across the top. V'd it out a bit, JB welded it, then when cured used a grinder and then sander to shape it. After it was painted it was impossible to see and never leaked again.

10-23-2014, 09:32 AM	#32
Lee Mitch Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Sandy, OR. Posts: 157	Re: crack in block Thanks to everyone! It looks like JB weld is the first course of action. I will re-post if it doesn't work. As usual Tom W., I believe you are spot on, but we will never know and it doesn't really matter at this point- just want to drive my A. : )