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Old 10-30-2014, 02:46 PM   #1
Jerry McConnell
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Default Brake Floater Kit Question

I have reviewed many of the posts related to the pros and cons of using the Flathead Teds brake floater system. I compiled the cost of rebuilding my backing plates against the cost of his kit. I contacted Ted and he gave be some background information. I tried to change the front backing plate tracks and was not successful using the small tool provided with the tracks. Using his kit appears to be the most cost effective option for me with a limited budget; am I wrong?
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Old 10-30-2014, 04:03 PM   #2
BRENT in 10-uh-C
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Default Re: Brake Floater Kit Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry McConnell View Post
I have reviewed many of the posts related to the pros and cons of using the Flathead Teds brake floater system. I compiled the cost of rebuilding my backing plates against the cost of his kit. I contacted Ted and he gave be some background information. I tried to change the front backing plate tracks and was not successful using the small tool provided with the tracks. Using his kit appears to be the most cost effective option for me with a limited budget; am I wrong?

Jerry, I realize that everyone has a "budget" and priorities as they are, sometimes funds can be slim but I see a couple fallacies with this entire situation.

First off, the little tool that is sent is only a spacer to protect the spring-end of the rivet. The peening of the rivets must be done with proper tools, --or by TIG welding the backside. The new rivets (-if you have damaged yours) are available from Vendors. THAT would be the first effective option! Weld up your old tracks and grind/file them does not cost that much money.

2nd, you MUST (for the safety of YOU, Your Car, ...AND the safety of other motorists driving around you) repair ALL of the brake system for it to work correctly. It is my opinion the F/H Ted system is only necessary to "band-aide" something else that is faulty. That kit is a minimum of $150.00 ....and I am hearing you complain that you are on a limited budget. Fix what you have first before investing in the kit!!
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Old 10-30-2014, 05:24 PM   #3
1931 flamingo
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Default Re: Brake Floater Kit Question

Flathead Ted's kit is designed to be ADDED after the brakes have been rebuilt, NOT instead of fixing everything first.
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Old 10-30-2014, 05:58 PM   #4
mhsprecher
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Default Re: Brake Floater Kit Question

Good responses. I have a 30 Town Sedan with restored brakes and cast iron drums that stops great. I have a 28 roaster with restored brakes with steel brake drums that are well adjusted and stops are downright scary sometimes. There can be many other factors, so it isn't a totally fair comparison, but my winter project is putting cast iron drums on the roadster. New drums are expensive, but a very worthwhile investment in safety. My point is the same as the others: many factors can cause your problem. Make sure you have diagnosed it properly first.
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Old 10-30-2014, 07:49 PM   #5
Purdy Swoft
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Default Re: Brake Floater Kit Question

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Not saying that Flathead Teds floaters are bad,I really don't understand them and feel that many others have the same problem. I understand how Teds square rear centering pins work and I can see how they are an improvement over original round brake roller pins for centering the rear brakes. I haven't used the square pins but it seems that they should work on the front as well. Otherwise I understand the original brakes well enough that I can make them stop as well as any. I don't drive in the mountains but good steel drums work fine for me. Of course it is only common sense that thicker cast iron drums would expand and fade less than steel in extreme conditions. As for floaters, I've used the old style that are no longer offered with good results . I now use the wedge style floaters offered by Snyders and Brattons and they equalize shoe pressure againjst the drums and are simple enough that anybody should be able to understand how they work. Original brakes are very simple and with the brake centering tool that is now available, doing the original brakes shouldn't be that hard to do. The main objective is to reasonably center the shoes within the drums and the rest, besides replacing obviously worn out parts is brake rod setup and adjustment.

Its really not necessary to have to replace every part of the brakes to have good brakes. Only the parts that are worn past the point of adjustment taking care of will have to be replaced . If the brakes wear on the modern car you don't replace the whole system, only the needed parts are replaced . Adjustment and proper setup of the service brake shaft , brake rods and shoe adjustment solves a multitude of sins with the model A brakes. On the other hand, a person can spend thousands of dollars replacing every part of the brakes and still be no better off if the brakes are not setup and adjusted properly.
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