2 tooth, 31 box and mis-centered steering wheel

[Rip]

Driving straight, my 31 steering wheel is at 11 o'clock rather than 12 straight up. It has no slop to left but much to right going straight. Sector cover nuts tight as well as box to frame nuts. With wheels off ground and pitman disconnected from draglink: end play in steering shaft, proper mesh tween 2tooth sector and worm gear, end play in 2 tooth sector check out on physical push/pull and rotate tests.

I've learned to drive carefully with the wheel position and right slop BUUUUT would like to correct. Any thoughts appreciated.
Ps-stalling on stops has been resolved with timing, raising idle, etc. thanks.
Pps-air mix on zenith inop but engine running okay so putting off rebuilding carb.

[Patrick L.]

Have you tried adjusting the box as per the service bulletins. These adjustments need to be done in order and may be to be done a couple times.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Steering wheel could be centered, using an adjustable length drag link.
Bill Offcenter

[Joe K]

Probably caused by a bent front axle.

Check that the spring perches and kingpins are in line (co-planar)

Usually the problem is found that the passenger side wheel is found "back" (i.e. axle curled around the spring perch.)

Note your wheels CAN be in alignment even with a bent axle. Alignment has nothing to do with co-planar for the supports.

Most Model A axles are bent to some degree. VERY rare to find them straight. I have four front axles and all are bent to greater or lesser amounts. One of my tasks coming up is to use the BEAR alignment tool (a homebrew item for me) and straighten two of them.

Here is the tool applied to a Model T - you get the drift.



Joe K

[Keith True]

Are you going by spoke position when you mean center? The A wheel position is random,not centered like a modern car.That is why there are two keyways,if a spoke got in the way of the speedo,you could pull it off and use the next keyway.It made no difference where the spokes were,as long as you could see the speedo you were good.I believe it explains the repositioning thing in the service bulletins.

[Charlie Stephens]

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Any chance you are running a shortened pitman arm? If so, that could be your problem.

Charlie Stephens

[Rip]

I did tests per"two Tooth Steering Basics by Paul Modlin". It did not address a "centerization rivet" adjustment r test. Apparently has to be done thru hole drilled in frame or bent strong screwdriver. After researching I'm not even sure what that rivet adjustment does. Dumb I guess.

I incorrectly assumed the cross tie rod could be adjusted to center the wheel like I think I did years ago on something. If the wheel doesn't have to be centered vertically at 12 o'clock, then I have no slop to left going straight and 6+/-" right.

I would like to have less slop. I've been able to drive straight but requires attention and not fun. any further help would be appreciated.

[Rip]

I didn't know adjustable a were available and will check suppliers. Guess I'll chase that slop to right first. Thanks

[Rip]

Well that will ruin my day😥. The previous owner said he drove it all over. I see no wear on front tires and it drives straight for me (neglecting the slop to the right of course. At this time I'd rather chase something else than pull f/e apart. Thanks though. Care to offer another opinion possibility on the slop to right? At this point I'm not even sure. What test or adjustment to try..

[Rip]

Just checked and the right slop in wheel does not move the pitman arm..

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Rip

Well that will ruin my day😥. The previous owner said he drove it all over. I see no wear on front tires and it drives straight for me (neglecting the slop to the right of course. At this time I'd rather chase something else than pull f/e apart. Thanks though. Care to offer another opinion possibility on the slop to right? At this point I'm not even sure. What test or adjustment to try..

I'm not familiar with Paul Modlin's article, but, the service bulletins is the book to read and use. I'm not sure I'd drive your monster too far considering what you've said until the box is adjusted correctly.

[DougT]

Originally Posted by Rip

Just checked and the right slop in wheel does not move the pitman arm..

Have some wiggle the wheel while you get down and look. Probably a tie rod end or a wheel bearing.

[Rip]

Respectfully, Would that cause slop in one direction? If so ,I see Sydney's offers both and I'll call them for lengths.

[Rip]

Did that and doesn't no pitman movement mean problem is in box. Not meaning to be argumentative just trying to see/figure my next step.

[Mitch//pa]

With the car still how much FREE play do you have from left to right or right to left..??

If the sector shaft is not moving when you move the wheel freeplay then it's most likely in the box..

When you state that your driving and you have no play to the left only to the right that's confusing...

The centrilization adjustment centers the sector and worm teeth

[Rip]

Modlin article is in "model A basics" site and I do have Les Andrews red book. Can't find service bulletins except buy 500 pages..

[Rip]

Called snyders and I have standard ,not shortened pitman.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by Rip

Care to offer another opinion possibility on the slop to right? At this point I'm not even sure. What test or adjustment to try..

most roads if not all have a certain degree of "crowning" to them to allow rain water to drain off instead of puddle. So your wheel is slightly cocked left due to worn out parts and your car naturally wants to curve down to the right this ever so slight sideways grade.


If your parked and turn the wheel left a revolution and right a revolution then recenter the wheel, how much free slop does the steering wheel have? ideally inch or less.

I agree, have someone else turn the wheel back and forth and see if you can see anything having slop (like tie rod moves but right tire does not sorta thing)

another thing to consider is over the years the tierods and pitman arms etc have taken a beating and may not be in spec in relation to the axle. The adjustable drag link is supposed to be the bandaid to correct for that.It wont fix your slop problem and could be potentially dangerous if the tierod pops off the spindle or worse yet the drag link off the pitman arm...

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Rip

Modlin article is in "model A basics" site and I do have Les Andrews red book. Can't find service bulletins except buy 500 pages..

Buy the full size book of Service Bulletins. Not that expensive and well worth the money.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by CarlG

Buy the full size book of Service Bulletins. Not that expensive and well worth the money.

Yep. Anyone the owns an 'A' should not be without these.