Riveting Brake Linings

[1967 Ford]

I am replacing the parking brake linings on my '29 A. I bought new linings and one of those $25 riveting tools from MAC's. I have never done it before. Are there instructional videos or directions readily available? Otherwise how do you do it? I am also a little fuzzy on drilling holes in the new lining for the rivets and how much to countersink.

Thank you

[Mikeinnj]

Start from the middle and work toward the ends and be sure to clamp the lining tight to the shoe before clinching the rivet. The ends of the linings should be tapered slightly.

[1967 Ford]

Mikeinnj

Thanks for the response. I am still a little fuzzy about drilling holes for the rivets and how much to countersink.

Thanks

[Mitch//pa]

some of the replacement e brake linings are thicker so you may have a problem getting your brake drum back on

[Sparky]

The rivet tool works well, I just did my brakes with one last fall. I did find that I needed to grind a bit off the casting to get a straight shot at the rivets at the ends of the shoes because the metal is reinforced there. I gave each rivet three good whacks with a hammer. With a bit of practice you can feel when the rivet is fully formed.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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I did a complete discription of the process a few years ago. If I can't search it, then I'll find my pictures and repost the process.

Here's alink to a thread and what I did is in reply #2. I'll keep looking for a picture of the special drill bit I made to do the job.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ning+wesenberg

[Tom Wesenberg]

Here's a picture of the drill bit I modified to drill parking brake linings. I used a 13/32" drill bit, chucked it in my lathe, then used a grinding stone in my Dremel to grind the last 1/4" of the bit down to .195". I then used a collar stop to set the depth of the rivet head pocket. The collar to the 13/32" bit edge depth is .700"

I spread the band slightly before clamping the ends of the lining to each end of the steel band. This will ensure the lining is tight to the band as it's drilled and riveted.

I'll add in the information from the link above, so it will be altogether with the tool picture.

I cut the lining to the correct length then clamp it to the band. Get a drill bit the same size as the rivet shaft and drill a couple holes (from the band side) in the center of the lining. Get another drill bit the size of the rivet head, or a hair larger. I used my Dremel to grind the end of this drill bit to the rivet shaft size. This will act as a pilot. This smaller diameter will now fit in the just drilled holes, and the larger diameter of the drill bit will make the counterbore for the rivet head. I grind the larger bit angle to match the angle on the underside of the rivet head. I use a drill stop to limit how far the counterbore goes, which is about 2/3 the thickness of the lining. Now, go ahead and rivet those couple holes in the center, then expand the band some and reclamp the ends. By expanding the band and reclamping, this will insure the lining is tight to the band when it's in the correct mounted position. I alternate from side to side working my way out from the center. To speed things up I use a drill for each of the 2 drill bits, otherwise you're doing a lot of bit changing (2 changes for each rivet).

When you're done riveting, bevel the ends of the lining a little.

[KR500]

Tom, Like your tool for counterboring for rivet heads. Most of the predrilled E linings are shallow and need slight deepening of counterbore. I was fortunate to get some Barrett carbide counterboring tools on the Bay some years back. With few drum brake needed applications these tools are tougher to find.

[Mike V. Florida]

I've had great luck using the drill that comes with the tool. I place the lining, drill the first hole, place a rivet and then move on only drilling the hole after the previous set are placed. I found that drilling all the holes first I sometimes ended up a little off by the end of the lining.