The REAL horse's mouth..

[Larry Jenkins]

I have done a lot of research; asked a lot of questions and got very mixed opinions. So now, I need the expert ones.

The concern is whether or not to use a short Pitman Arm versus the regular length one. Many opines: some say hell no; some say they like them. None of the answers had a lot of convincing details.

No set pattern, one way or the other.

I solicit your well qualified answers to help me decide..

Thanks Gang!

Larry Jenkins

[glenn in camino]

I have a shortened one on one of my Model As. It has increased the turning radius and I don't like it. I'll probably change it back to the original.

[Steve Plucker]

There is nothing wrong with the long one.

Pluck

[Jacksonlll]

Same here. I had one on, but the large turn radius got old quickly. I changed back.

[eagle]

The reason some like and others don't is because not all steering boxes have the same travel. I have one on my A and love it, but I have the same turning radius as I had with the long arm. If I had to trade the nice easy steering for a longer turning radius, I don't think I would like it, but my A turns nice and sharp, AND has easy steering. How could I not love it? In your case, you will want to pull your old pitman arm off and verify whether or not you have enough travel to make up for the shorter pitman arm. I'm sure there are ways to tell other than this method, however, it works for me. Long story short, I love my short pitman arm.

[fiddlybits]

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First-DO NOT use a 'shortened' arm. They have been known to fail. If you use a short arm make sure it started life as a short arm and is not a long arm that has been cut and welded.

Comparison between the normal arm and a 'short' (new casting) arm on my fordor w/7 tooth:

The short arm was easier to turn but could not turn as tight.
The normal arm took more effort but turned tighter.
i noticed no difference at highway speeds and curves.


I put the short arm on because of turning effort but when I re-shimmed the king pins I went back to stock. (And it is actually easier to turn than it was with the short arm)

It would be my humble opinion that, with a few exceptions, if the front end is set up right, there is no need for the short arm

[eagle]

Originally Posted by forever4

The conclusion of many people is that the shortened arms are 'more better'.
The conclusion of many other people including myself is that there is nothing to be gained, and they are unnecessary.

I gained far easier steering and lost no turning radius.

[Pete]

I'm weird, I have a F100 box and put a LONGER arm on it.
I like quick steering.

[jmeckel]

Originally Posted by forever4

Actually you did not. That is not how physics works. Just your perception or belief, but not reality. You can have one or the other, but not both.

I think you may want to try one, and check your math. As long as your steering box has the extra travel to keep your wheels going from block to block so the turning radius is not effected, they help with the amount of work it take to turn the wheel. You will need to turn the steering wheel more degrees to make the front wheels pivot (or "turn") the same amount.
I put one on mine and there is a marked difference in work it takes to turn the steering wheel, and my steering box allows the extra turns so my wheels go stop to stop.

[700rpm]

After much cogitation...

[Mike V. Florida]

Here is the thing and you do want the truth don't you?

IF EVERYTHING in the front end is properly rebuilt, All the balls round and tight in the sockets, the steering box rebuilt rebuilt back to spec, king pins and so on, your car will steer with an ease you never knew possible.

It is the same with most "A" systems. Take the "new" zenith carb. It has been proven on Dynos that they have less HP. (OK 1 HP) but the people swear by them because they are going from crap to good. Same goes with pitman arms, steering boxes, panard bars and the like. If we could only drive in a truly restored or an original car to see how well they actually perform.

[eagle]

Originally Posted by Larry Jenkins

I have done a lot of research; asked a lot of questions and got very mixed opinions. So now, I need the expert ones.

The concern is whether or not to use a short Pitman Arm versus the regular length one. Many opines: some say hell no; some say they like them. None of the answers had a lot of convincing details.

No set pattern, one way or the other.

I solicit your well qualified answers to help me decide..

Thanks Gang!

Larry Jenkins

I didn't know this was such a controversial issue, just trying to give my perspective. I didn't mean to get anyone upset. Look on the bright side, we could be arguing about oil! or Whitewalls!

[Hotrodfil]

I use a short drop arm and still get full lock with a 2-tooth steering box. Seem to recall it's about 2-1/2 turns lock to lock now? I find it makes it less twitchy in the bends and still quick enough to catch it if it slides. My other race car however I've had to fit a longer drop arm!

[harleytoprock]

Just give it a try. It will only cost about $40. and less than a half hour of work. If you don't like it, it's no biggie to go back to stock.

[fiddlybits]

You don't state where you are located...you might be able to 'borrow' one for a few hours. (I don't mean off of someone's car)

[DougVieyra]

Hotrodfil, post # 15.
Come on Phil, with a teaser photo like you have on your post, you have GOT to tell us more about the unusual Ford in the photo. I know production things happened outside the U.S. that leave many of us in 'unfamiliar territory'. And of course, using up existing parts of older production items is well known; BUT - A quick look of the car in your photo shows an amalgam of what looks like a '27 Model T touring (bumper-less), but '28 'A' looking fenders, and 19" '30 A wheels, as well as 1930 Headlights, on a '29 bar, and '30 taillights . Anybody else pick up on any other things that make this car look 'funny' ?

- I have always wanted to put a 1909/'10 'T' Touring body and fenders on a Model A chassis. It looks like you are on the same 'flight path'. And with a moniker like "HotRodFil", I suspect that there may be some neat 'stuff' under the hood of the car you pictured on your post.

- Dying with curiosity, Doug Vieyra, Eureka, Calif

[Marco Tahtaras]

Originally Posted by DougVieyra

Hotrodfil, post # 15.
Come on Phil, with a teaser photo like you have on your post, you have GOT to tell us more about the unusual Ford in the photo. I know production things happened outside the U.S. that leave many of us in 'unfamiliar territory'. And of course, using up existing parts of older production items is well known; BUT - A quick look of the car in your photo shows an amalgam of what looks like a '27 Model T touring (bumper-less), but '28 'A' looking fenders, and 19" '30 A wheels, as well as 1930 Headlights, on a '29 bar, and '30 taillights . Anybody else pick up on any other things that make this car look 'funny' ?

- Dying with curiosity, Doug Vieyra, Eureka, Calif

Doug, He posted the story a couple years ago. Here is the link:

My "1927 Mercury" phantom

[Brian T]

Originally Posted by Larry Jenkins

I have done a lot of research; asked a lot of questions and got very mixed opinions. So now, I need the expert ones.

The concern is whether or not to use a short Pitman Arm versus the regular length one. Many opines: some say hell no; some say they like them. None of the answers had a lot of convincing details.

No set pattern, one way or the other.

I solicit your well qualified answers to help me decide..

Thanks Gang!

Larry Jenkins

Those that say hell no. no nothing regarding steering theory, first of all as mentioned above it will not work on a poorly maintained or damaged steering system, -- some believe it is the fix for all that's wrong, -- this was discussed a short while ago.
Since then I have made a adjustable drag link and now have full left and right lock and the steering wheel is straight, so Larry if your not having a problem don't mess with it here is the discussion from earlier.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ort+pitman+arm