Starting New Car

[Fillinjc]

Hi,

New owner of a 1930 coupe here. Trying to address so many issues/opportunities at one time. Sloppy loose rear hubs which I have torqued. Exhaust flange leak which I have fixed (at least made it better). The seller had the car running for me, sounded good for all that I know. It usually starts right away on the third or so crank when I pull the choke out. But it dies soon after pushing the choke in. I have had luck keeping it running by keeping the choke out until it warms up. Everything that I am reading is telling me this isn't right. This morning having trouble keeping it it running with some back firing out of carb and I guess that I flooded it so walked away for now.

Any advise?

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Thanks!
Jerry

[Farrell In Vancouver]

Check for aa vaccum leak around the carb and intake?
Pull the carb apart and check for dirt/plugged jets?

[billwill]

Replace gasket beteen carb and intake manifold

[Patrick L.]

First, where is the GAV [ choke rod] set ? If the carburetor is a Zenith it should be 1/4 to 1/2 turn out from lightly seated and when cold starting it sometimes helps to open it another 1/2 turn for a minute or so. Actually a Tillotson isn't much different, another 1/4 to 1/2 turn out.
Another help to keep the engine running is to use the hand throttle, leave it bit a couple clicks for a minute.
As soon as the engine starts you can also advance the spark lever to about 1/2 to 3/4 down.
Don't know if you're doing all that stuff now, so, I thought I'd bring it up.

[Bob C]

Welcome. Here is a link to the owners manual, see page 8 for
engine starting directions. http://www.motormayhem.net/wp-upload...ion-Manual.pdf

Bob

[Mitch//pa]

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hi Jerry welcome to the barn
you posted a loaded question so here is what i suggest

go over all the basic settings and maintenance on your A's engine. this would include the condition and adjustment of your plugs , points and timing...also check the wire inside the distributor that connects the plates which is common for fraying and shorting. that wire will cause all sorts of intermittent and driveability issues as well as a no start cond... this will give you a solid bases to further diagnose any more issues with the carburetor and if there are any vacuum leak issues etc, etc...
make sure your rear , trans fluids , engine oil are full and not contaminated, give the car a full inspection style shake down like we do here in PA...
good luck and enjoy

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Jerry,
Even when a Model A is set up well, most require a little learnin' to figure out it's "personality" during a COLD start. Sorta' like when I first sit up in the AM! I have to use a lot of "TRICKS" to get goin'
Bill W.

[40 Deluxe]

It's helpful to remember that a Model A engine is entirely computer controlled, somewhat like a new car! No automatic choke, no vacuum controlled power valve in the carburetor, no fast idle linkage, no centrifugal nor vacuum spark advance, no neutral safety switch. No, all these functions and more are controlled by the gray computer usually found in the driver's seat mounted atop a skeletal support system!
If this computer is properly programmed, the Model A will start easily even in very cold weather and will operate efficiently. A properly programmed gray computer is also able to compensate for changing weather and road conditions, even performing very effective anti-lock brake functions.

[hangarb7]

welcome to the Fordbarn!

Honestly, I would suggest hooking up with a local owner of model A's or a club and get them to feel it out for you.

Most of the time, in my opinion, for newbies as I was at one time, there are three basic problems assuming the car COULD run properly if all is well.

1) the timing is incorrect or the condenser/points on the ignition are defective or not set properly, or...

2) the GAV gas valve is improperly set (by the way, my '30 with a Zenith likes the valve to be open one full turn to start and then as it warms, slowly move it to 1/2 open... 1/4 open produces backfires through the carb... at 1/2 open the plugs are a nice tan color) or...

2) it's the operator.

You need to get someone to help you locally. It would help you a lot if someone started and drove the car and told you it was ok or not.

Good luck and stay in touch,

JackD
Pittsburgh

[Tom Wesenberg]

Once it's starting and running right be sure you know (or learn) to double clutch, so there isn't grinding of gears.

As soon as my engine fires up I pull the spark lever half way down, and after about 10 seconds I push the hand throttle back up. After a minute of running I can close my GAV from 1 1/2 turns open back to 1/4 turn, or even fully closed.

[Goldhardt]

I agree with Hangarb7, get with a local club ASAP. They will be a wealth of knowledge and can save you dollars and headaches. Don't be embarrassed to ask questions, even basic ones like how to start the car and keep it running once it starts. We were all there at one time or another. Starting, driving and maintaining a Model A is nothing like a modern car. Yours looks very clean. Enjoy it and welcome to the Barn!

[J Franklin]

On a cold start open the GAV on the choke lever at least a full turn and close as it warms up. You may need to leave it about a quarter turn open after warm up but maybe it will need to close more depending on how it runs.

[C26Pinelake]

Find a nearby owner and ask for a half hour tutorial. Until you learn the basics, life will not be fun. If the owner had it running fine then your problem is likely you and not the car. Definitely read the owner's manual before doing any in depth checking. Wayne

[Jwilli]

Jerry, it does take a little learning. When I bought my 30 fordor, from a neighbor about 2 miles away. He drove it to my house for me, my wife road with him. I tried to start it to no avail. She said let me show you how. It started right up for her. It always helps to have someone with experience to help out.

[Mike V. Florida]

Welcome to the hobby and your new car!!!

[Fillinjc]

Thanks for the support to this newbie. I tried to do a bit of reading on Model A's and even thought that I had the starting sequence down pat prior to purchase. Of course it is completely different when you are sitting in the car and it is laughing at you. I appreciate all the guidance. I will need to jot down the suggestions and open my Les Andrews Vol. 1. I have now posted a request for local help on the Lehigh Valley Model A Club website. The coupe seems solid with great potential but I realize that it needs a good going over. When I bought it I was hoping for a Memorial Day ride but now looking at 4th of July.

Jerry

[Redbird]

Search the web for "starting a Model A". The videos are great!

[ian Simpson]

Jerry,
We have had our 28 Tudor for nearly 7 years and I am still amazed that I can get it to start. Although I have established a fairly reliable routine, I find that it must be varied ever so slightly depending on temperature, humidity, and the way I spoke to it the night before.

My basic routine is to fully retard the ignition, open the hand throttle just over half way, open the GAV one turn, turn on the ignition, press the starter and as the engine turns over pull out the GAV for an instant. Even at minus 30F it will usually fire up. Once running I pull the spark lever half way down and slowly push up the hand throttle to keep the engine speed within reason. I do not normally adjust (close) the GAV until I am ready to move off.

Notwithstanding, I find the Tudor to start much better cold than our 57 Chevrolet and 75 MGB. Usually it starts on the second attempt even after several months of storage. Further neither of our current century cars will start after six months of storage as their computer systems will drain the battery!

Good luck for July 4th. Personally I am aiming for July 1st as I recover from another bout of hand surgery.

[dumb person]

If the carb' is not made of iron they warp and leak air where they bolt to the manifold.

[Mitch//pa]

your in good hands with the lehigh valley club. many of us attend their spring meet in hellertown and a couple of the members are also on the barn.