Re-core radiator cost

[burner31]

Anyone done a re-core lately?
I'm having overheating problems, I'm thinking the radiator is just to old and gummed up.
I know a new one will cost about six bills.
Tried the radiator flush, and it's not any better.
Ideas anyone?

[tim54889]

I was told $400/$500. So I paid $20. Solder, flux and piece of wire. And 6 hours. Your choice.

[burner31]

Where do we get the core?
Common size?
I'm a "do it yourself" kind of guy, so if I could get the core I sure as heck would give it a try.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Find a shop that does TRUCK/TRACTOR radumators, sometimes they'll make you a "DEAL", just for the "FUN" of helping a Model A fanatic!!
Bill W.

[tim54889]

I ment clean the old one out. My rad shop said they send the core place the measurements and they are custom made.

[quickchange]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Bill that don,t happen down under, $950 for last recore , Nice alloy one from china land $245 , it don,t fit , cost another $ 50 to make fit. ( put the filler neck in the right place ) Don,t go there. Winter time in NZ . 9 weeks till blast off.

[pooch]

Yes, I would try the chinese alloy ones for the price , but a word of warning to OZ ebayers.

All the ones I have found on ebay (supposedly IN OZ ) are from the SAME warehouse in Laverton Melbourne.

They are all different ads and different wording and pics and different ebay names, but they are all out of the same place.

Price seems good and when you check the core size on every ad, they are about 1 1/2 inches too short and 1 1/2 inches too narrow. .

Imagine seeing these gaps beside the core and the top and bottom tank showing from the front.

[Jack S.]

Try $700 for one done for my 1928 last summer on Cape Cod, (Ma.)

[denis4x4]

Try a real radiator shop that can R&R the top and bottom tanks and can rod the tubes and pinch off or repair leaks.

[30aadoodlebug]

You can get a brand new one for $565.00 made here in the states...

[burner31]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

Find a shop that does TRUCK/TRACTOR radumators, sometimes they'll make you a "DEAL", just for the "FUN" of helping a Model A fanatic!!
Bill W.

Now that's thinking outside the box...lot of truckers, lot of tractors out here in Okie land.
Would have never thought of that, Thanks Bill
I'm going to pursue that line of thinking.

[burner31]

Went for a drive today, got about eight miles out, doing between 45-50 when started to get spray on windshield from the rad cap, some visible steam, seemed to slow down once I got under 35.
Has to be the radiator...right?

[Tom Wesenberg]

I would say your cap needs a better gasket, and your radiator is at least somewhat plugged and not letting the coolant flow down fast enough. Get it rodded out, or recored.

[Mike V. Florida]

It the gasket is good nothing should ever be see at the cap.

As for recore, have you checked Bergs for just a core. Call them as their web site is rather lacking.

[Logan]

Theres a shop in fort worth that will do a 3 row modern core radiator that pressurized in the $4-500 range. But i think its closer to the 400. After thats done, no matter what temp it is outside, your motors never above 170

[barkleydave]

Been the complete route! Conclusion for me was... spending 300-500 for refurbishing a radiator is nothing more than a crap shoot. I took the plunge and bought a Berg.
If you want a pressurized one for your A they will build it.

I stayed with their 3 row 10 fins per inch and no more problems. Now installing a thermostat to warm things up a bit

The lesson: I now watch the road instead of the darn temp gauge!

[rscardina]

Burner31
I had some leaking from my radiator cap and replaced the gaskets with the correct gaskets to resolve that issue. I bought the car with homemade gaskets.

[Tinker]

It's about 5-600 around here. Well worth it to me and hope the guys that do it are around for a while. If not what option do we have.

First thing I do on a new car, never run cooler.

[Marco Tahtaras]

Originally Posted by burner31

Anyone done a re-core lately?
I'm having overheating problems, I'm thinking the radiator is just to old and gummed up.
I know a new one will cost about six bills.
Tried the radiator flush, and it's not any better.
Ideas anyone?

A couple of quick points. First, I looked a couple of your pics posted in the past. The radiator in your car is an older replacement. Good or bad, I can't say because I've only been around originals the last 2-3 decades. If you go to someone without sufficient experience it my not help much.

Do you see any oil film floating on the water in the radiator? It could have issues from over greasing water pump in past years in which case the typical radiator flush will not address it. Other folks here have more experience than I at dealing with that one.

Lastly, look down into the top of the radiator after one of these episodes (after cooling a bit!) and see hoe low the water level is. Can you see the tops of the cooling tubes or is there a baffle blocking the view?

There are a couple more questions relating to your specific answers to the last paragraph that can be addressed depending on your answers.

[Fred K-OR]

Keith, talk to Steve at Bert's in Denver. He may be able to help you out with this problem.

[Tinker]

To be Devils advocate, just cleaned out a yblock and pumped it to a stock rad. Rad was flushed and painted. Runs 160 over a 60 mile trip. Guess a 180 temp gauge is in order.

[Tiny]

Try the vinegar treatment. It worked on my rust plugged radiator.

[steammech50]

http://detroitradiatorcorp.com/ Great folks,good cores and good prices for the do it yourselfers !

[burner31]

The radiator says "EUREKA" I have no idea if it's a replacement or an original, I put a new leather gasket in the cap and it quickly turned to soft mush, the cap is kind of beat up and rough looking so I have a new one on order, can't see to far down the neck due to the baffle. When I take the cap off after one of the spewing problems the level is not far down, I'm filling the radiator up to the bottom of the baffle.
As long as I stay under 40 there seems to be no problem.
And I'm not running a thermostat.

[burner31]

Forgot to mention that my starter went out (lead from field coil broke) so wont be able to try the new cap until those parts come in.

And no, I'm not hand starting it, with my luck I'd break an arm.

[Mike V. Florida]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by burner31

The radiator says "EUREKA" I have no idea if it's a replacement or an original, I put a new leather gasket in the cap and it quickly turned to soft mush, the cap is kind of beat up and rough looking so I have a new one on order, can't see to far down the neck due to the baffle. When I take the cap off after one of the spewing problems the level is not far down, I'm filling the radiator up to the bottom of the baffle.
As long as I stay under 40 there seems to be no problem.
And I'm not running a thermostat.

Originals did not say "eureka".

[Tiny]

Originally Posted by burner31

The radiator says "EUREKA" I have no idea if it's a replacement or an original, I put a new leather gasket in the cap and it quickly turned to soft mush, the cap is kind of beat up and rough looking so I have a new one on order, can't see to far down the neck due to the baffle. When I take the cap off after one of the spewing problems the level is not far down, I'm filling the radiator up to the bottom of the baffle.
As long as I stay under 40 there seems to be no problem.
And I'm not running a thermostat.

Vinegar

[rocket1]

paid $550.00,should have bought a new one

[burner31]

I'll hit the dollar store and pick up 10 bottles of white vinegar
Run it for about a week than back flush
Salt/pepper and a garnish

Of course I can't run it til I get the starter fixed but I can let it soak until I can fire her up

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by rocket1

paid $550.00,should have bought a new one

Whey do you say that? With a new core is it not like new?

[Tiny]

Originally Posted by burner31

I'll hit the dollar store and pick up 10 bottles of white vinegar
Run it for about a week than back flush
Salt/pepper and a garnish

Of course I can't run it til I get the starter fixed but I can let it soak until I can fire her up

I had to do more than that. I removed the radiator and back flushed it inverted and more chucks of rust came out. You will probably have to do this several times before it totally clears up. Be fore warned you may end up with some leaks as rust may have been plugging pin holes

[johnbuckley]

The new radiators from Snyders cost $530, is there a problem with them that people are paying more to have their old rads re-cored and restored or are they just wanting to keep things absolutely original?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by johnbuckley

The new radiators from Snyders cost $530, is there a problem with them that people are paying more to have their old rads re-cored and restored or are they just wanting to keep things absolutely original?

I like original tanks and frames the best, and with a new Berg's core you will have a radiator that fits and cools like it should. Be sure to use antifreeze and make sure the block is clean, or you may plug up the new radiator.

I used a sump pump and large tub of water to backflush my block and radiator. You need a good strong flow of water, which won't come from a garden hose.

[rocket1]

they use the old upper and lower tanks

[burner31]

UPDATE
Ran vinegar for a week, came out looking like dark coffee along with some small chunks.
installed a water temp gauge.
Flushed well, neutralized with baking soda, back flushed, more small chunks came out.
Re-filled with antifreeze and water, ran it down the road.
Hit 180 - 190 cruising around slow, get her up to 45+ the temp goes up to 220 then drops back to 180, then goes back up, then back down.
Is this a steam bubble problem?
Thinking I need a thermostat, 160 or 180?
If that don't fix it I will pull the radiator, block off the bottom tube then fill with evapo-rust for a few days.
What I really need is a rod out, just finding a shop to do this is the problem.
Any suggestions?
A new 700 dollar radiator is not an option at this time.

[msmaron]

Call Bergs

[Fred K-OR]

Again check with Bert's in Denver for a re-core swap. May be less than 700 and maybe just as good as some current new ones.

[whirnot]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

Again check with Bert's in Denver for a re-core swap. May be less than 700 and maybe just as good as some current new ones.

The last time I got recore from Bert's it was a FOUR Tube, and the tubes were properly staggered. that makes a difference.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by burner31

UPDATE
Ran vinegar for a week, came out looking like dark coffee along with some small chunks.
installed a water temp gauge.
Flushed well, neutralized with baking soda, back flushed, more small chunks came out.
Re-filled with antifreeze and water, ran it down the road.
Hit 180 - 190 cruising around slow, get her up to 45+ the temp goes up to 220 then drops back to 180, then goes back up, then back down.
Is this a steam bubble problem?
Thinking I need a thermostat, 160 or 180?
If that don't fix it I will pull the radiator, block off the bottom tube then fill with evapo-rust for a few days.
What I really need is a rod out, just finding a shop to do this is the problem.
Any suggestions?
A new 700 dollar radiator is not an option at this time.

"Thinking I need a thermostat, 160 or 180?"

Is it your thinking that a thermostat will lower the temp?

As for rodding it out, it seems to me you have little choice and an opportunity for great personal satisfaction.

If there is no shop around and you plan to either have it recored, or replaced this is what I would do.

Take the radiator out of the car (has to be done anyway), place it on a board and trace around it to get an accurate outline. With a propane torch remove the top tank. Go to a hobby/craft store and purchase two 3' pieces of music wire and one tube. One wire and the tube about 1/2 the diameter on the radiator tube and one wire just under the size of the tube. Round off the bottom edges of the wires and crimp a periodontal brush in the tube. Using the rods, clean out the tubes, forcing any junk into the bottom tank, follow up with the brush. Once done flush out the radiator and the bottom tank.

Place the top tank on the core, place the assembly on the board to check for height and solder back in place.

If that does not work you "wasted" about $20.00 and an afternoon. If it does work you saved, well, see above posts, and also gained personal satisfaction in a job well done.

[ericr]

I don't think anyone has mentioned yet to send your radiator shell along with the radiator carcass you want to get re-cored, to make sure the holes line up. though perhaps some shops would just ignore the shell and tell you they referred to it.

[holdover]

My '29 coupe needs a new rad. it had a honeycomb replacement in it when I bought it. This is not a show and never will be a fine points judging car so my intent is to put a new radiator in it. My question is out of those that are available who makes one that is closest to the original, Snyders, Brassworks etc.


thanks....

[Mikeinnj]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

"Thinking I need a thermostat, 160 or 180?"

Is it your thinking that a thermostat will lower the temp?

As for rodding it out, it seems to me you have little choice and an opportunity for great personal satisfaction.

If there is no shop around and you plan to either have it recored, or replaced this is what I would do.

Take the radiator out of the car (has to be done anyway), place it on a board and trace around it to get an accurate outline. With a propane torch remove the top tank. Go to a hobby/craft store and purchase two 3' pieces of music wire and one tube. One wire and the tube about 1/2 the diameter on the radiator tube and one wire just under the size of the tube. Round off the bottom edges of the wires and crimp a periodontal brush in the tube. Using the rods, clean out the tubes, forcing any junk into the bottom tank, follow up with the brush. Once done flush out the radiator and the bottom tank.

Place the top tank on the core, place the assembly on the board to check for height and solder back in place.

If that does not work you "wasted" about $20.00 and an afternoon. If it does work you saved, well, see above posts, and also gained personal satisfaction in a job well done.

What is a "tube" and what is "music wire" ?? Read this about five times and my head is still spinning.....

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by holdover

My '29 coupe needs a new rad. it had a honeycomb replacement in it when I bought it. This is not a show and never will be a fine points judging car so my intent is to put a new radiator in it. My question is out of those that are available who makes one that is closest to the original, Snyders, Brassworks etc.


thanks....

I bought a Berg's 28-9 round tube core about 10 years ago. They are the best and closest to original.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Mikeinnj

What is a "tube" and what is "music wire" ?? Read this about five times and my head is still spinning.....

I'm sorry, here is a link,

http://www.ksmetals.com/17.html

[burner31]

Originally Posted by Mikeinnj

What is a "tube" and what is "music wire" ?? Read this about five times and my head is still spinning.....

My thinking is that a thermostat will change/regulate the pressure in the block, help control the outflow, and hopefully help the situation.
I still like the evapo-rust idea.
Found a shop that will do a rod out for 75-100, about 45 miles away.

[ctlikon0712]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

I like the Dura Core H design and the US Mfg. I'll have to check their pricing, if its right it might be worth doing yourself.

http://detroitradiatorcorp.com/drc/page/ultra-core/

[DougVieyra]

I just received a reply from BrassWorks, and they say that at this time they can't provide a '28-'29 style radiator with the 'Funnel' inlet tube; but hope to in the future.

[Dick Carne]

I've had a couple of Model A radiators re-cored as well as one for a Model T - all ran between $375 and $425, depending on how far back its been. We put a new Walker radiator on our phaeton about 25 years ago, but the re-cored units perform just as well as the "new" Walker. I just like the idea of using original tanks - your choice.

Good Luck either way -

Dick

[The Brassworks]

We are re-tooling the dies for the funnel neck. In the interim, we are re-storing using customer's funnel necks and constructing replacements with the late 1929 style neck which somewhat resembled the 1930. Hope to be producing the deep drawn funnel style neck again within a few weeks.

We now hand-shear the concave relief which corresponds to the sidewall die stamping on 1928-1929 and 1930-31s.

Originally Posted by DougVieyra

I just received a reply from BrassWorks, and they say that at this time they can't provide a '28-'29 style radiator with the 'Funnel' inlet tube; but hope to in the future.

[burner31]

Originally Posted by The Brassworks

We are re-tooling the dies for the funnel neck. In the interim, we are re-storing using customer's funnel necks and constructing replacements with the late 1929 style neck which somewhat resembled the 1930. Hope to be producing the deep drawn funnel style neck again within a few weeks.

We now hand-shear the concave relief which corresponds to the sidewall die stamping on 1928-1929 and 1930-31s.

If you're ever in need of a unbiased tester for your '31 radiators I will gladly volunteer to give my results/opinion to all at the "Ford Barn", and beyond, on just how great your radiators truly are. Even if the testing takes years and years.
Hint..hint