09-06-2016, 10:24 PM | #21 |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
I'm not in a hurry to rebuild this. When I left for work this morning I anticipated that it would be my last drive for the season and I got a half block away from home when it broke down. My hardship will be getting it in the trailer for winter storage now. I've got nothing but time. If this was a weekend job, I'd take it on but I don't think it is. I plan on gathering the parts I need and educating myself for what lies ahead this spring. No room for a spare rear end here...in Fairbanks, different story. My first experience digging into a rear end...I'm looking forward to it!!
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09-06-2016, 10:43 PM | #22 | |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
Quote:
If you take that rear all the way out, completely dismantling it, carefully inspecting each component, possibly finding issues with other things besides a broken axle, that you will need to find and replace, then carefully and accurately setting bearing preloads, gear backlash by shifting shims (gaskets) from side to side, then doing a final inspection of actual gear mesh, and finally torquing everything to specifications and reassemble this into your car, it will NOT be a weekend job, at least for me it wouldn't. The only gotcha that I can see with putting it to bed and gathering all the parts you need to do this in the spring is....you really won't know exactly what you need until you take the rear apart. It's a tough call on what to expect next when playing with these early Ford V-8's, but honestly, for me, its all part of the fun.
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John "Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein Last edited by JM 35 Sedan; 09-07-2016 at 09:18 AM. Reason: clarifing why it's not a weekend job |
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09-06-2016, 10:48 PM | #23 |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
Hi all; remember Vern Tardel has a great new book on rear diff's. Newc
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09-07-2016, 12:36 AM | #24 |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
Take a look at these, I'm in the process of putting together a modified banjo for my '28.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...st-one.981464/ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...o-axle.812569/ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...ebuild.462776/ |
09-07-2016, 01:31 AM | #25 |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
The job can certainly be a weekend job for one who has had prior experience doing it. I had built my diff from scratch, but unknowingly installed an axle set with cracks. When an axle let go 1000 miles from home, I got lucky in being able to use a fellow Fordist's garage and beer refrigerator, as well as access to his bone yard! 36 hours later, I was on the road again.
No, you do not have to remove the torque tube, but will have to remove the spring and shocks. As mentioned before, you may want to make a career out of the job, but just for axles, piece of cake.
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09-07-2016, 01:54 AM | #26 |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
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09-07-2016, 07:19 AM | #27 |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
I had a similar thing happen to me and it was the driveshaft broke at the end of the tube driveshaft where the spline piece was welded to the tube. Trailered it home and that is what I found after about 12000 to 13000 miles of trouble free miles. Just my story. kerk
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09-07-2016, 07:41 AM | #28 |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
After sleeping on this, I decided that I'll take on the project if I can find an axle before I get started. I don't want the car apart, sitting in front of the garage, all winter because I can't find the parts to fix it. As I mentioned, I'm not sure if this is the original diff to the car or if my dad swapped it out when he converted it over to juice brakes. What do I need to look for to determine what diff I have and what axle I need?
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09-07-2016, 08:39 AM | #29 |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
Have a look where the spring attaches to the axle. If the attachment points on the axle are part of the axle casing, it is a 37-40 axle. If the attachment points are on an extension of the radius arms and are bolted to the axle then that is 35/36.
In theory any complete rear end assembly 35-40 ought to bolt in. Obviously if it is exacly the same it may be simpler with regards to running the brake lines etc. I meant to reply earlier to say that if you jack up the rear and pull each wheel, one of them ought to pull right out. This will confirm the broken axle diagnosis. If one does not pull right out, it may be because it is catching on the brakes or safety hubs or retainers have been fitted in the past. One other thing, is the speedo working when the car is supposed to be, but not driving? If it is it means the problem is rearward of the gearbox, if it isn't, the fault is in the gearbox or clutch. No harm in doing a little testing to try and isolate the problem. If it were me and the tests show it is an axle, I would first get an axle and then only partially dismantle the left side of the casing. This would allow the diff unit and the axle shafts as an assembly to be withdrawn. they can be fitted up with new shafts and reassembled. With luck, if the gaskets do not get torn it can be bolted back together and back up and running in a relatively short time. Mart. Last edited by Mart; 09-07-2016 at 08:54 AM. |
09-07-2016, 09:12 AM | #30 |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
Thanks Mart, I will run home and take some pictures of what I have...I don't believe the attachment points are bolted on but will check. I'm certain it's a broken axle. In neutral with the engine running, there's a slow and steady clink, clink, clink coming from the rear end and when I put my ear on the axle tube, it's clear the noise is coming from within. I can also grab the left rear tire and rock it back and forth with quite a bit of movement...it never did that before.
I mentioned that this will be a driveway project but failed to mention that once the axle is out of the car, I can set up a table in the garage and work on it inside...I just can't fit the whole car in there...sigh!
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09-07-2016, 09:34 AM | #31 |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
I've already suggested this is not the way I would go about it, I would remove the whole axle assembly and go through it. However, if you want to go the one axle replacement only approach be sure you understand how the gaskets determine the backlash and bearing load. If the existing gaskets do not come off intact, then you need to be sure of the thickness of them. Any new gaskets must remain identical to the existing ones.
Some of this may help (if you can read it!). Found a slightly clearer copy of one of the pages. Last edited by JSeery; 09-07-2016 at 09:50 AM. |
09-07-2016, 10:03 AM | #32 |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
Capt, if your axle housings look like these, with the angled flange welded in place like these for rear wishbone attachment, then you would have a '35-'36 rear.
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09-07-2016, 10:27 AM | #33 |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
JM, also aren't these in the years where you have to consider the spider gears teeth counts? I know there are different spider gears (teeth count wise) but are the axle teeth counts different as well?
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09-07-2016, 10:37 AM | #34 |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
Yes there are different tooth count on axles used in the '35 to '40 rears. The earlier rears in this range have 18 teeth on their axles, while the later versions have 16 teeth. They can be interchanged, but only when using the same tooth count axles, and the appropriate spider gears as an assembly.
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09-07-2016, 10:52 AM | #35 | |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
Quote:
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John "Never give up on what you really want to do. The person with big dreams is more powerful than one with all the facts". Albert Einstein Last edited by JM 35 Sedan; 09-07-2016 at 11:11 AM. |
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09-07-2016, 10:55 AM | #36 |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
Thanks JM, I'm a QC guy, so things are a little different. But I remember the spider gear issue. I built my QC with 9 inch axles and the V8 center section so it uses the original Ford V8 spider gears. Had to sort out the spider gear tooth count.
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09-07-2016, 10:57 AM | #37 |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
Good catch, why would there be any sounds coming from the rear axle with the transmission in neutral?
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09-07-2016, 01:25 PM | #38 | |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
Quote:
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09-07-2016, 01:31 PM | #39 |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
First batch of pics
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09-07-2016, 01:37 PM | #40 |
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Re: Awwe Crap!
Last batch of pics. I measured from the face of the backing plate to the banjo flange and if memory serves, it was 24 5/8"
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