The Ford Barn

Mitch//pa · 06-10-2013, 08:36 AM

rebuilding my 2 tooth box, my shop press doesnt have a tall enough stand height to r&r the worm gear, so in doing a search i found a couple guys tapped the shaft to 5/8 and used a grade 8 allthread to pull it on. my results were that i tapped the shaft about 1" ---5/8th and used a grade 8 bolt flat and lock washers to press it back. i had to cut another 1/2" of threads on the bolt to accomodate the nut. it worked beautiful and to pull it off i used my snap on bearing puller set. thanks to all that had posted previously on this subject.

Napa Skip · 06-10-2013, 08:53 AM

An elegant solution. Very helpful.

larrys40 · 06-10-2013, 09:32 AM

Mitch,

First I've heard of this method...... glad it worked..

Here's how I usually do them.. I try not to alter the steering shaft any.....

Removal: I use a cut off wheel and cut lengthwise on the old worm ( it's not good anyway) and stop before you start nicking the shaft.... you can gauge it carefully...
at that point with the worm supported on the anvil of the vise... use a small cold chisel and drive in the cut of the worm... and it will fall off the shaft, may need a slight tap. This has always worked great... and is quick.

2. Installation. Remember the ends of the worm are hardened ( or should be adequately) I place the shaft in my bronze jawed vice very tightly.... at the point just above where the end of the worm would have originally been, and I drive the new worm on the shaft with a large brass hammer I have..... you just have to hit square.... and it drive it on tight and you know it's on tight from the force required to do so.... Let the end of the shaft free so as to not put any pressure on it and bow it. I've done many and have always had good success. Note: the brass is much softer than the worm so you should not have any issues to the worm . I've hit pretty hard and have never had a problem.

of course make sure your steering shaft threads.. etc are in good shape and the shaft is not bent.
Larry Shepard

Mitch//pa · 06-10-2013, 10:44 AM

larry i understand about altering. i did start hitting it wih a brass hammer but felt i would do more harm than good. the original hole in the shaft accepts the 5/8 tap without drilling so other than cutting a few threads in the end nothing was altered...

larrys40 · 06-10-2013, 02:12 PM

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Mitch,
Thanks for the reply... I will have to look at that the next time I do one... or at least if it gives me trouble. I don't like pounding things too hard ( at least on new parts) and at least with the threads the force is applied throughout the inside of the shaft downward. It's always good to learn new methods...
Thanks Mitch!
Larry

06-10-2013, 08:36 AM	#1
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Steering worm rebuilding my 2 tooth box, my shop press doesnt have a tall enough stand height to r&r the worm gear, so in doing a search i found a couple guys tapped the shaft to 5/8 and used a grade 8 allthread to pull it on. my results were that i tapped the shaft about 1" ---5/8th and used a grade 8 bolt flat and lock washers to press it back. i had to cut another 1/2" of threads on the bolt to accomodate the nut. it worked beautiful and to pull it off i used my snap on bearing puller set. thanks to all that had posted previously on this subject.

06-10-2013, 08:53 AM	#2
Napa Skip Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Napa CA Posts: 412	Re: Steering worm An elegant solution. Very helpful. __________________ Skip Keyser Napa Valley A's Olympic Vintage Auto Club (1980-1982) MARC of San Diego (1977-1978) MAFCA (since 1978) MARC (since 1977) ---------- Model A owners belong in their Model A’s; Model A’s belong on the road.

06-10-2013, 09:32 AM	#3
larrys40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St Charles , Missouri Posts: 2,032	Re: Steering worm Mitch, First I've heard of this method...... glad it worked.. Here's how I usually do them.. I try not to alter the steering shaft any..... Removal: I use a cut off wheel and cut lengthwise on the old worm ( it's not good anyway) and stop before you start nicking the shaft.... you can gauge it carefully... at that point with the worm supported on the anvil of the vise... use a small cold chisel and drive in the cut of the worm... and it will fall off the shaft, may need a slight tap. This has always worked great... and is quick. 2. Installation. Remember the ends of the worm are hardened ( or should be adequately) I place the shaft in my bronze jawed vice very tightly.... at the point just above where the end of the worm would have originally been, and I drive the new worm on the shaft with a large brass hammer I have..... you just have to hit square.... and it drive it on tight and you know it's on tight from the force required to do so.... Let the end of the shaft free so as to not put any pressure on it and bow it. I've done many and have always had good success. Note: the brass is much softer than the worm so you should not have any issues to the worm . I've hit pretty hard and have never had a problem. of course make sure your steering shaft threads.. etc are in good shape and the shaft is not bent. Larry Shepard

06-10-2013, 10:44 AM	#4
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: Steering worm larry i understand about altering. i did start hitting it wih a brass hammer but felt i would do more harm than good. the original hole in the shaft accepts the 5/8 tap without drilling so other than cutting a few threads in the end nothing was altered...

06-10-2013, 02:12 PM	#5
larrys40 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: St Charles , Missouri Posts: 2,032	Re: Steering worm Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Mitch, Thanks for the reply... I will have to look at that the next time I do one... or at least if it gives me trouble. I don't like pounding things too hard ( at least on new parts) and at least with the threads the force is applied throughout the inside of the shaft downward. It's always good to learn new methods... Thanks Mitch! Larry