The Ford Barn

fundytides · 09-01-2021, 11:54 AM

I just had my 31 Roadster painted. I had all the "black" pieces (fenders, splash shields, etc) painted off the car. I am now beginning to re-assemble these parts to the car. There are 4 small carriage bolts that are intended to hold the back half of each of the splash shields to the frame. First question is should the bolts go in from the top or bottom? Second question is, am I going to have to lift the body several inches to get the bolt installed that is in the area of the "curtain pan" under the front seat? I can't seem to get my fingers up between the pan and the frame to install the bolt from the top and if I install it from the bottom, there is no way to get a wrench on the nut. I am hesitant to use a sling to lift the body because of the new paint. Any info/suggestions are appreciated

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 09-01-2021, 12:23 PM

The head of the special carriage bolt used to fasten the body aprons will be on top, and the nut and lockwasher will be located on the inside of the frame rail. If I am understanding your 2nd question, you will insert the bolt prior to installing the body. Once installed, you will lower the body onto the chassis.

fundytides · 09-01-2021, 01:15 PM

Thanks Brent. That's what I was afraid of. The body was painted while on the chassis, so now I would have to lift the body to install the bolt in the area of the curtain pan. Not sure I want to take that risk with a newly painted body. Maybe I can find a clip or plug that will go up through the frame and hold the pan in that location.

31Tudor · 09-01-2021, 02:18 PM

The splash aprons have a little bit of "float" built into the bolt holes. You would be ahead of the game to assemble the aprons, but don't bolt down the body or the aprons, then pre-fit your fenders, to align them up with everything. You may find it more difficult later if everything is bolted down tight.

Big hammer · 09-01-2021, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fundytides

Thanks Brent. That's what I was afraid of. The body was painted while on the chassis, so now I would have to lift the body to install the bolt in the area of the curtain pan. Not sure I want to take that risk with a newly painted body. Maybe I can find a clip or plug that will go up through the frame and hold the pan in that location.

I lifted my Tudor one side at a time used a jack and a short length of 2x under the body. Keep the bolts in there holes with nuts off.

Big hammer · 09-01-2021, 03:07 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Quote:

Originally Posted by fundytides

Thanks Brent. That's what I was afraid of. The body was painted while on the chassis, so now I would have to lift the body to install the bolt in the area of the curtain pan. Not sure I want to take that risk with a newly painted body. Maybe I can find a clip or plug that will go up through the frame and hold the pan in that location.

I lifted my Tudor body one side and then the other, used a short 2X under the body crosswise and jack on a large block of wood. Keep the bolts in the holes and the nuts off.

fundytides · 09-01-2021, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Big hammer

I lifted my Tudor body one side and then the other, used a short 2X under the body crosswise and jack on a large block of wood. Keep the bolts in the holes and the nuts off.

Yeah, kind of thought I would try that. The structure of a Roadster is not quite as rigid as a closed car but might be ok if I am careful. I'll remove steering column clamp, starter button etc. to cut down on interference. Should only have to lift the body a couple of inches to get the bolts in properly.

aermotor · 09-01-2021, 07:45 PM

If you are talking about what I am thinking about, I cut the shield from the hole to the inside edge with to a V shape - then if you later need to remove the shield just loosen the nuts and you can slide it out, but then again you can't remove a nut from a bolt that isn't there.

John

fundytides · 09-02-2021, 12:27 PM

Lifted the body enough this morning to get 2 of the bolts in properly (from the top). I was afraid to lift the body high enough to get the 2 bolts by the curtain pan in without running the risk of distorting the body or maybe cracking the paint. I don't think these 2 bolts are critical. I can always put them in next time I have the body off

09-01-2021, 11:54 AM	#1
fundytides Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: New Brunswick, Canada Posts: 480	1931 Splash Shield Installation I just had my 31 Roadster painted. I had all the "black" pieces (fenders, splash shields, etc) painted off the car. I am now beginning to re-assemble these parts to the car. There are 4 small carriage bolts that are intended to hold the back half of each of the splash shields to the frame. First question is should the bolts go in from the top or bottom? Second question is, am I going to have to lift the body several inches to get the bolt installed that is in the area of the "curtain pan" under the front seat? I can't seem to get my fingers up between the pan and the frame to install the bolt from the top and if I install it from the bottom, there is no way to get a wrench on the nut. I am hesitant to use a sling to lift the body because of the new paint. Any info/suggestions are appreciated

09-01-2021, 12:23 PM	#2
BRENT in 10-uh-C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Eastern Tennessee Posts: 11,544	Re: 1931 Splash Shield Installation The head of the special carriage bolt used to fasten the body aprons will be on top, and the nut and lockwasher will be located on the inside of the frame rail. If I am understanding your 2nd question, you will insert the bolt prior to installing the body. Once installed, you will lower the body onto the chassis. __________________ . BRENT in 10-uh-C . www.model-a-ford.com ...(...Finally Updated!! ) .

09-01-2021, 01:15 PM	#3
fundytides Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: New Brunswick, Canada Posts: 480	Re: 1931 Splash Shield Installation Thanks Brent. That's what I was afraid of. The body was painted while on the chassis, so now I would have to lift the body to install the bolt in the area of the curtain pan. Not sure I want to take that risk with a newly painted body. Maybe I can find a clip or plug that will go up through the frame and hold the pan in that location.

09-01-2021, 02:18 PM	#4
31Tudor Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: North Carolina Posts: 611	Re: 1931 Splash Shield Installation The splash aprons have a little bit of "float" built into the bolt holes. You would be ahead of the game to assemble the aprons, but don't bolt down the body or the aprons, then pre-fit your fenders, to align them up with everything. You may find it more difficult later if everything is bolted down tight.

09-01-2021, 07:45 PM	#8
aermotor Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 1,099	Re: 1931 Splash Shield Installation If you are talking about what I am thinking about, I cut the shield from the hole to the inside edge with to a V shape - then if you later need to remove the shield just loosen the nuts and you can slide it out, but then again you can't remove a nut from a bolt that isn't there. John Last edited by aermotor; 09-01-2021 at 08:02 PM.

09-02-2021, 12:27 PM	#9
fundytides Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: New Brunswick, Canada Posts: 480	Re: 1931 Splash Shield Installation Lifted the body enough this morning to get 2 of the bolts in properly (from the top). I was afraid to lift the body high enough to get the 2 bolts by the curtain pan in without running the risk of distorting the body or maybe cracking the paint. I don't think these 2 bolts are critical. I can always put them in next time I have the body off