Pressurizing radiator 1936

[jacob smith]

What is the general consensus on pressurizing an un pressurized radiator system. I have a 36 ford and I am looking at updating the water pumps and pressurizing the system, what are the down falls.

[1931 flamingo]

What condition is the radiator in?? Why do you want to pressurize??
Paul in CT

[ford38v8]

Start with a clean, rodded out radiator. Instruct the radiator man to fabricate a support to solder internally across the wide expanse of flat brass of the top tank before he reassembles the radiator, that will prevent oil~canning of the tank. Ensure that the filler neck is compatible with a pressure cap. Use no higher pressure than a 4 lb cap.

I should say, don't consider this to be a wonder drug for an ailing flattle. All systems should be up to snuff before applying new fixes, some of which can be considered band aids.

[jacob smith]

Radiator was re-cored in 1995. I am looking to do this just to help the car stay cool in traffic. I have not had an overheating promblem but have had the car get hotter here or there. I thought that it might be a good idea. I do not want to have to re do the radiator pressurize the system. I am looking at the systems that is sold through skip in Florida. I think that it only puts 3 pounds of pressure in the system.

[koates]

Hi there, Pressurising your existing 36 ford system will not make it cool any better. It will only raise the boiling temperature of the coolant to above the normal atmospheric pressure, which is 212 deg. F. Better to fix your existing system. Maybe an electric radiator cooling fan if you do a lot of traffic work in the summer. Regards, Kevin.

[scooder]

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I agree completely with Koates, it won't make your engine run cooler.
What is the actual temperature when it gets "hotter here or there"? You could be worrying about nothing, you said it hasn't over heated. Knowing the actual real temperature would tell you wether you need to start mussing with things.
Martin.

[JSeery]

If it's not boiling over I wouldn't mess with it.

[JM 35 Sedan]

I was constantly losing coolant through the radiator overflow tube while driving my original '35 fordor sedan. If I didn't stop frequently to add more coolant the engine would overheat. Someone suggested that I try an overflow check valve sold by Skip Haney which does pressurize the cooling system to about 3 lbs. I installed one of his check valves on the end of the overflow tube, and bingo, no more coolant loss and no more over heating. I am using an original '35 radiator cap that seals well at top of the neck. Modern pressure caps will not work with a stock '35/'36 radiator neck configuration. Then I installed a set of his high flow water pumps and reduced the normal engine running temperature by 10 to 15° F. I could finally drive this car on long trips at 60 mph all day long without constantly losing coolant and eventually overheating.

In 2013 I drove this car on a cross country tour from Gettysburg, Pa to Lake Tahoe, Nevada and back. Total mileage for me on this trip was 7200 miles. I am convinced I could not of made this trip without these cooling system changes.

What are the downfalls? In my opinion.....none.

[jacob smith]

I am only using the orginal temp gauge. So it is a little hard to tell the actual temp. But I have seen the whole gauge red. That is another item that I have to do is put an after market temp gauge in but I do not want to disconnect the orginal temp gauge to do so.

[JM 35 Sedan]

Originally Posted by jacob smith

I am only using the orginal temp gauge. So it is a little hard to tell the actual temp. But I have seen the whole gauge red. That is another item that I have to do is put an after market temp gauge in but I do not want to disconnect the orginal temp gauge to do so.

I have a single S-W temperature gauge mounted on an L bracket under the dash since standard model '35's did not come with a temp gauge until very late in the model year. Bought it from Speedway Motors. Works very well.

[VeryTangled]

Hi Everyone, Jacob Smith, I have the same type of temp gauge, the only one in my car. I've seen it red all the way to the top too, in a couple of cases, but my car never throws out fluids. I consider myself lucky!

I keep an eye on it but don't worry about it.

The modifications that JM has done are pretty mild, but he was actually having a problem.

Just because all moderrn cars are pressurised doesnt mean a '36 Ford needs it.

Hope this helps.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by jacob smith

I am only using the orginal temp gauge. So it is a little hard to tell the actual temp. But I have seen the whole gauge red. That is another item that I have to do is put an after market temp gauge in but I do not want to disconnect the orginal temp gauge to do so.

Jake do what JM35 suggested. Skips valve does not really pressurize the system. The problem with the early radiators not equipped for a pressure
cap is the open over flow tube allows water to back up in the top tank due to the restriction of the 144, 2 foot long radiator tubes. The water backs up in the top tank and out the overflow tube. Now low on water the engine runs hotter. The 3 lb check valve mounted with a rubber hose on the bottom of the over flow tube keeps the water in the system. It also lets the pumps force the water through the radiator for better cooling and act as a safety pressure relief valve if the pressure gets much over 3 lbs. Once a year remove the 3 lb valve and flush in both directions in the sink. The water will only flow through it from the direction of the radiator. This valve is not for use with a pressure cap. Fix the problem with the pressure cap if water is lost. The original temperature gauge is all you need once you get used to it. Buy a laser pointed thermometer if you want better readings. G.M.

[JM 35 Sedan]

*Re: Pressurizing*radiator*1936
"Jacob Smith, I have the same type of temp gauge, the only one in my car. I've seen it red all the way to the top too, in a couple of cases, but my car never throws out fluids. I consider myself lucky!
I keep an eye on it but don't worry about it.*
The modifications that JM has done are pretty mild, but he was actually having a problem.
Just because all moderrn cars are pressurised doesnt mean a '36 Ford needs it"

Jeff, I don't think you drive your car at the sustained speeds, that are high enough and for long enough periods of time, to throw out that much coolant. Especially with the 3.78 gear change that reduced engine rpms.

[VeryTangled]

Hi Everyone, Posting to add to the discussion, not to make any points about what the Original Poster was asking about, as I'm a little off his topic.

The first three photos taken on the Fall Maine Barners Tour on August 27th, 2012.

I may still have had 4:11 ratio that day. We'd just come off about a 50 mile interstate run, if I remember, with the speed limit 60mph, right on the edge of what that gearset/engine combination was happy with. That might have been the moment we decided we needed a change if we were going to avoid getting in the way of traffic.

The photos were taken after coming off the interstate, and (stupidly) idling for a couple of minutes for pictures at the Ford dealer where we'd left our trailers. Then I took the snap of the scary looking gauge, which I'm pretty sure was going up (it's usually around the O or the R in NORMAL), and with the car turned off it usually does. In the photo with the flash turned on you can see the shape of the top of the fluid column, they called it a meniscus in school. I notice when it is flatter the temp is usually going up, when more U shaped, the temp is going down. I'm almost afraid to know what this level on the gauge is in actual degrees F.

Knock wood, I don't really know why it doesn't puke fluids, I'm lucky. I keep checking the level, but it has stayed the same for over a year. Another hard day was the Larry Baily 'Over The Mountain' tour in Georgia (fourth photo).

You know what work has been done to my/our car, it's been a lot. Almost every mechanical system. But the systems that are like when we got it are the engine and cooling (and wiring).

I hope I'm not putting a curse on myself here. I do have fresh set of Skip's pumps sitting in the garage, but haven't seen signs that I need to rush them onto the engine.

Regardless, one of my spares is a quantity of water. Normal operating procedure is to monitor the fluid quantity frequently. The last photo is in the middle of a tour across the mountains between Tahoe and Genoa.

I also just realized that you're seeing photos of JM in New Hampshire, and Nevada! What a car, what an owner, and a great friend who's always willing to help by wrenching and advising!

[FlatheadTed]

A 41b heeder pressure tank does the same thing as a valve it doesn't raze the boiling point but does create a sealed system that forces water through , high flow pumps will do a similar thing and , a shroud will add there share to the mix .

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by JM 35 Sedan

*Re: Pressurizing*radiator*1936
"Jacob Smith, I have the same type of temp gauge, the only one in my car. I've seen it red all the way to the top too, in a couple of cases, but my car never throws out fluids. I consider myself lucky!
I keep an eye on it but don't worry about it.*
The modifications that JM has done are pretty mild, but he was actually having a problem.
Just because all moderrn cars are pressurised doesnt mean a '36 Ford needs it"

Jeff, I don't think you drive your car at the sustained speeds, that are high enough and for long enough periods of time, to throw out that much coolant. Especially with the 3.78 gear change that reduced engine rpms.

John, You don't have to run on a tour to throw coolant out the over flow.
It can happen in 20 miles or less. G.M.

[FlatheadTed]

On the tests I have done A low pressurised system can make it run cooler simply because its a sealed unit and the water is forced through ,with a poor performing radiator it will make it run more affiant ,Ted

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by FlatheadTed

On the tests I have done A low pressurised system can make it run cooler simply because its a sealed unit and the water is forced through ,with a poor performing radiator it will make it run more affiant ,Ted

Ted it sounds like you have been reading my posts on this subject. I have
been posting the benefits of a closed over flow tube for well over 10 years.
G.M.

[JM 35 Sedan]

George, there are still many non believers in spite of all the positive posts that have been made over the years. With Skips overflow check valve, high flow water pumps, and rewound coil, my '35 runs well and is a very reliable vehicle.

[jacob smith]

Thank you for all the help. all of you