The Ford Barn

Terry, NJ · 05-10-2012, 08:51 AM

In scouting around for parts, I came across an engine for a good price. It was a gamble and I gambled and I think I won. It appears to be 1930 block that has been bored .040. There is no ridge!, only a slight visual one. the block doesn't appear to be cracked anywhere. Although the engine appears to be broken in, it is not loose. No play in the rods. There is however, .008 end play in the crank. there wasn't much carbon in the Cyls. The valves need some work. but nothing was stuck. What should I look for?
Terry

SLPreston53 · 05-10-2012, 09:05 AM

I would pull the mains and check the babbit.

George Miller · 05-10-2012, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SLPreston53

I would pull the mains and check the babbit.

I would do the same.

Christoph · 05-10-2012, 10:04 AM

I would do the same as this sounds like a plan to me

Besides - i wouldnt know what to expect and what to look for

Is there any babbitt-photoalbum to be found in the net - like:

- new and shiny
- good to use
- well you might....
- dont you....
- store it at the junk

Im willing to learn

Thank you

Best regards from Frankfurt
Christoph

Frank Miller · 05-10-2012, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Christoph

I would do the same as this sounds like a plan to me

Besides - i wouldnt know what to expect and what to look for

Is there any babbitt-photoalbum to be found in the net - like:

- new and shiny
- good to use
- well you might....
- dont you....
- store it at the junk

Im willing to learn

Thank you

Best regards from Frankfurt
Christoph

Smooth with no cracks. Check clearance with plasti-gauge. If you cannot remove shims to bring it into spec or you see cracks it is on borrwed time or junk. Some can give a better answer but that is the simple one.

Mikeinnj · 05-10-2012, 02:34 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

"the block doesn't appear to be cracked anywhere." .....

Terry,cracks are often not visible and require magna-flux to find them. If any are found, it is sometimes difficult to repair them via "lock stitch" or welding. That is the first thing I would check and then check the condition of the babbitt and also inspect the rod and crank journals, crank end play etc.

If you are going to use the engine for "in town" parades you might just re-assemble it after adjusting the bearing shims, lap and adjust the valves,new rings, etc.and hope for the best with that crank end play.

If you plan distance touring and expect reliability, you would want to consider a professional rebuild.

Terry, NJ · 05-10-2012, 05:24 PM

Hallo Christoph, Your solution was pretty much what I was thinking too. My first concern is the block. My last block was cracked in 3 places and I didn't catch even one. That was embarrassing ! Although I didn't mention it, I got the flywheel cover with the engine and that has a hairline beginning of a crack. I shall try to repair it with a "Crack stop" hole and braze or silver solder. As far as the Babbit is concerned, a visual inspection should reveal any flaws or cracks in it. From what I've seen, it gets crumbly and chips apart if it is bad. If it's good, it will look good, if it's bad, it will look bad!
Terry

Quote:

Originally Posted by Christoph

I would do the same as this sounds like a plan to me

Besides - i wouldnt know what to expect and what to look for

Is there any babbitt-photoalbum to be found in the net - like:

- new and shiny
- good to use
- well you might....
- dont you....
- store it at the junk

Im willing to learn

Thank you

Best regards from Frankfurt
Christoph

Christoph · 05-10-2012, 11:14 PM

Thank you all

As beeing old (enough) allready, i will never catch up
your knowledge, but i might improve a little

Cant wait to have a look into my engine once i hold a spare-engine

Terry
Do your crack stop a little ahaed of the visible end of the crack

columbiA · 05-11-2012, 12:07 AM

Get the pistons on TDC & rock them back & forth with your fingers.Even if there is no ridge,it doesnt mean muchas it could have been rerung several times & the ridge removed each time.There could also be a lot of wear on the ring lands.I would dismantle the engine & check every thing for your own peace of mind.If the crank & brgs are good,it shouldnt cost to much to make a good engine out of it.It also depends wether you are going to put 10,000 miles a year on it,or only a few thousand over the rest of your life.

05-10-2012, 08:51 AM	#1
Terry, NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks Co, Pa Posts: 3,740	New to me, engine In scouting around for parts, I came across an engine for a good price. It was a gamble and I gambled and I think I won. It appears to be 1930 block that has been bored .040. There is no ridge!, only a slight visual one. the block doesn't appear to be cracked anywhere. Although the engine appears to be broken in, it is not loose. No play in the rods. There is however, .008 end play in the crank. there wasn't much carbon in the Cyls. The valves need some work. but nothing was stuck. What should I look for? Terry

05-10-2012, 09:05 AM	#2
SLPreston53 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Long Beach, CA. Posts: 219	Re: New to me, engine I would pull the mains and check the babbit.

05-10-2012, 10:04 AM	#4
Christoph Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Frankfurt am Main in Germany Posts: 671	Re: New to me, engine I would do the same as this sounds like a plan to me Besides - i wouldnt know what to expect and what to look for Is there any babbitt-photoalbum to be found in the net - like: - new and shiny - good to use - well you might.... - dont you.... - store it at the junk Im willing to learn Thank you Best regards from Frankfurt Christoph

05-10-2012, 02:34 PM	#6
Mikeinnj Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Northern New Jersey Posts: 1,262	Re: New to me, engine Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) "the block doesn't appear to be cracked anywhere." ..... Terry,cracks are often not visible and require magna-flux to find them. If any are found, it is sometimes difficult to repair them via "lock stitch" or welding. That is the first thing I would check and then check the condition of the babbitt and also inspect the rod and crank journals, crank end play etc. If you are going to use the engine for "in town" parades you might just re-assemble it after adjusting the bearing shims, lap and adjust the valves,new rings, etc.and hope for the best with that crank end play. If you plan distance touring and expect reliability, you would want to consider a professional rebuild.

05-10-2012, 11:14 PM	#8
Christoph Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Frankfurt am Main in Germany Posts: 671	Re: New to me, engine Thank you all As beeing old (enough) allready, i will never catch up your knowledge, but i might improve a little Cant wait to have a look into my engine once i hold a spare-engine Terry Do your crack stop a little ahaed of the visible end of the crack

05-11-2012, 12:07 AM	#9
columbiA Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,746	Re: New to me, engine Get the pistons on TDC & rock them back & forth with your fingers.Even if there is no ridge,it doesnt mean muchas it could have been rerung several times & the ridge removed each time.There could also be a lot of wear on the ring lands.I would dismantle the engine & check every thing for your own peace of mind.If the crank & brgs are good,it shouldnt cost to much to make a good engine out of it.It also depends wether you are going to put 10,000 miles a year on it,or only a few thousand over the rest of your life.