The Ford Barn

spinelll · 09-09-2013, 06:50 AM

I was snooping around under my car this weekend and noticed this radius ball arrangement (see attached pics). I was expecting springs and spacers but only saw this one piece unit.
Does this imply that I have one of those rubber ball inserts?

Leo

Mitch//pa · 09-09-2013, 06:57 AM

yes sir thats what you got

1931 flamingo · 09-09-2013, 12:28 PM

Which will serve it's purpose as long as the ball hasn't deteriorated. JMO
Paul in CT

Purdy Swoft · 09-09-2013, 12:56 PM

I've run the rubber ball setup on mine with good results for over fifty years. The rubber ball cover needs to be replaced from time to time but lasts for years. The rubber ball setup was Fords better idea that was used from 32 through 48. The metal to metal setup on the model A obviously wears the radius ball.

gweilbaker · 09-09-2013, 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

I've run the rubber ball setup on mine with good results for over fifty years. The rubber ball cover needs to be replaced from time to time but lasts for years. The rubber ball setup was Fords better idea that was used from 32 through 48. The metal to metal setup on the model A obviously wears the radius ball.

It won't last long with oil on it, it'll turn to goo in a big way. Now these are the ones I was getting in the late 80s, maybe there is a better quality one available now?

Ross/Kzoo · 09-09-2013, 02:20 PM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by gweilbaker

It won't last long with oil on it, it'll turn to goo in a big way. Now these are the ones I was getting in the late 80s, maybe there is a better quality one available now?

From what I've heard the "rubber" products sold lately don't last very long. One gent bought replacement parts for his 66-67 car and had it on the self for 3 years. When he went to install the new part it fell apart in his hand. So I don't think that the new stuff is better.

PeteVS · 09-09-2013, 04:25 PM

Really good rubber parts are made with 100% "new" rubber which is put into a mold and heated (vulcanized.) Once it's vulcanized, it's usually pretty good in the shape it was done in. To cut costs, many manufacturers take the vulcanized scrap, grind it up and add it to the "new" rubber. Then, only the "new" rubber vulcanizes and the old scrap just goes along for the ride. The newly vulcanized stuff just binds the old stuff together. Then, to cut costs even further, they keep cutting down on the good stuff. So, you wind up with junk stuff that just falls apart. Good luck on finding better quality parts as time goes on.

Purdy Swoft · 09-09-2013, 04:44 PM

I've been using them since 1960 with good service. I do have a few on hand that I got several years ago. The rubber stiffens with long shelf storage. Boiling them for a short time makes them plyable. The one that I installed on my sedan is still holding up after 14 years. None of mine are daily drivers and 3 of them never leak a drop of oil. It takes a bad leak to actually reach the radius ball. Oil dripping out the rear main would first collect in the flywheel housing and drip out the hole at the bottom with the cotter pin . There is a raised area around the circumferance of the housing where the bell housing connects that will act as a dam. Oil would then have to go slightly up hill to reach the radius ball. The caps that surround the rubber radius ball are not drilled for lubrication. I seen relic type model A's with bad leaks and old live rubber ball covers that were breaking up and gooey. This hasn't been the case with any of mine. I've found that most people use them. Some may feel ashamed to admit it because they simply don't know any better.The original setup was flimsy, prone to shimmy and metal to metal contact doesn't wear well .

CarlG · 09-09-2013, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Purdy Swoft

... I seen relic type model A's with bad leaks and old live rubber ball covers that were breaking up and gooey...

That's the way mine looked when I bought the PU. I did replace it with the original style, but put a lot of the stringy wheel bearing grease in the cup before bolting it down. I did keep the metal parts of the rubber ball type just in case I wanted to go back as some time. Then all I'd have to do is get a new chinese rubber ball.

gweilbaker · 09-10-2013, 06:59 AM

"It takes a bad leak to actually reach the radius ball. Oil dripping out the rear main would first collect in the flywheel housing and drip out the hole at the bottom with the cotter pin ."

I think the oil is blown there from a leak somewhere in front of the ball. Notice the oil in the original poster's pictures. That's how I find them with the ball all gooey.

Purdy Swoft · 09-10-2013, 10:09 AM

I agree but it takes a real bad leak or the drain hole is completely blocked. The oil usually leaks past the slinger after engine shut down.

09-09-2013, 06:57 AM	#2
Mitch//pa BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Bucks County, PA Posts: 11,454	Re: Rubber radius ball yes sir thats what you got

09-09-2013, 12:28 PM	#3
1931 flamingo Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: new britain,ct 06052 Posts: 9,393	Re: Rubber radius ball Which will serve it's purpose as long as the ball hasn't deteriorated. JMO Paul in CT

09-09-2013, 12:56 PM	#4
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: Rubber radius ball I've run the rubber ball setup on mine with good results for over fifty years. The rubber ball cover needs to be replaced from time to time but lasts for years. The rubber ball setup was Fords better idea that was used from 32 through 48. The metal to metal setup on the model A obviously wears the radius ball.

09-09-2013, 04:25 PM	#7
PeteVS Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: FP, NJ Posts: 2,771	Re: Rubber radius ball Really good rubber parts are made with 100% "new" rubber which is put into a mold and heated (vulcanized.) Once it's vulcanized, it's usually pretty good in the shape it was done in. To cut costs, many manufacturers take the vulcanized scrap, grind it up and add it to the "new" rubber. Then, only the "new" rubber vulcanizes and the old scrap just goes along for the ride. The newly vulcanized stuff just binds the old stuff together. Then, to cut costs even further, they keep cutting down on the good stuff. So, you wind up with junk stuff that just falls apart. Good luck on finding better quality parts as time goes on. __________________ Don't never get rid of nuthin!

09-09-2013, 04:44 PM	#8
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: Rubber radius ball I've been using them since 1960 with good service. I do have a few on hand that I got several years ago. The rubber stiffens with long shelf storage. Boiling them for a short time makes them plyable. The one that I installed on my sedan is still holding up after 14 years. None of mine are daily drivers and 3 of them never leak a drop of oil. It takes a bad leak to actually reach the radius ball. Oil dripping out the rear main would first collect in the flywheel housing and drip out the hole at the bottom with the cotter pin . There is a raised area around the circumferance of the housing where the bell housing connects that will act as a dam. Oil would then have to go slightly up hill to reach the radius ball. The caps that surround the rubber radius ball are not drilled for lubrication. I seen relic type model A's with bad leaks and old live rubber ball covers that were breaking up and gooey. This hasn't been the case with any of mine. I've found that most people use them. Some may feel ashamed to admit it because they simply don't know any better.The original setup was flimsy, prone to shimmy and metal to metal contact doesn't wear well .

09-10-2013, 06:59 AM	#10
gweilbaker Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lindenhurst, IL Posts: 792	Re: Rubber radius ball "It takes a bad leak to actually reach the radius ball. Oil dripping out the rear main would first collect in the flywheel housing and drip out the hole at the bottom with the cotter pin ." I think the oil is blown there from a leak somewhere in front of the ball. Notice the oil in the original poster's pictures. That's how I find them with the ball all gooey.

09-10-2013, 10:09 AM	#11
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: Rubber radius ball I agree but it takes a real bad leak or the drain hole is completely blocked. The oil usually leaks past the slinger after engine shut down.