Quote:
Originally Posted by Lona
The photo in my original thread shows the motor raised about one inch and the lower bolts of the rear mounts removed and the uppers loosened. The tension on the large tapered yoke springs was only partially relieved. The motor needed to be raised about another inch to get all of the pressure off these springs.
The photo below shows the mount back together as it was before starting work. The yoke nut had to be tightened against the X member in order to pull the engine downward enough to get the bottom rear mount bolts to align and to get the hand crank into the ratchet nut. This compressed the upper springs to an almost closed position and making an almost solid connection between the mount and the X member.
The photo of the yoke stud is in the following thread since my pics seem too large to post more than one per thread (will figure that out later).
It does not appear that the stud is too long and there doesn't seem to be any rubber isolators under or inside the springs. In fact, the large upper springs seem to result in the motor being higher than it should be. This doesn't leave enough space to get the bottom spring on the stud and is likely why the previous owner left it off and why I have excessive motor vibration.
At this point, I have backed off the stud nut a turn or so to relieve some tension on the upper springs and to allow the motor to float a little until I again attack the mount replacement problem this winter. However I have a concern that loosening the nut with no lower spring between the nut an the X member might result in a snapped stud when the motor wants to rise suddenly after hitting a bump while driving.
I would appreciate opinions on whether I should tighten the stud nut firmly against the rubber grommet and X member or to leave the nut a little loose until the entire mount is replaced this winter.
Glen
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Attached photo of the yoke stud from below.
Glen