Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Just to be clear, I didn't say "whack" the top of the carb. I said "tap" the top of the carb. That has loosened up many a stuck needles without damaging the top of the carb. Finesse is the key here, not brute strength or a BFH.
'Just did that to a friend's 1931 Coupe last week and the chronically sticking needle freed right up, stopping an irritating leak. He was a happy camper after that.
Of course, as has been recommended here, it doesn't hurt to disassemble the carb for cleaning and inspection. But the way needle and seats are made today, the inside of the carb could be surgically clean, yet the needle will occasionally stick in the seat. Could be the poor quality of gummy gasolines we are obliged to buy these days or some fine particles of grit have found their way from the gas tank into the carb. I have even had sticking needle problems with the very expensive new Viton tipped needles. I never had any luck with the ball bearing configuration, the so-called Gross needle and seat. Are these even being made anymore? I try to find original needle and seats whenever possible, but they are hard to scare up. I am still kicking myself over not buying a compartmentalized cardboard Zenith Corp box that contained all the jets and gaskets for rebuilding the Zenith carb. It was new old stock and the owner said he got it from a Ford dealership in the 1950's. Its mechanics had used such boxes when rebuilding customers' carbs. Can you imagine how good the quality of THOSE parts was!?! $25 and I passed on its purchase. Dumb, dumb, dumb me!
Marshall