Quote:
Originally Posted by Conaway2
This is the best time to get the frame as straight as you can - it ll make a difference.
I recently straightened the frame on a car I’m presently restoring - used the string method to measure. I straightened it cold (like post #4) using a long 6” X 6” timber with a long steel I-beam on top. Each end of the frame was held with chains while I used a 20-ton bottle jack under the frame at the rear motor mount. There was an article published some time ago on how to do this - I think the title was something like ‘straightening the frame the shade-tree way’.
https://www.mafca.com/downloads/Rest...aightening.pdf |
From my vantage point, the 'shade-tree way' is the perfect example of how a professional would
NOT do it. Even more to the thought, if the late Bob and I were given two identical frames bent/sagging the same amount to repair, I could have my frame repaired in less than the time it took him to get set-up with jacks, chains, timbers, etc. in a effort to do his, ...and my method of just using a torch & water will last WAY longer than his method simply because I am correcting the initial trauma instead of adding a second bend to counteract the first one. My method has been discussed more than a few times here, and the success of my method has also been discussed by contributors here.