Aries Stainless Steel Muffler Last fall my parents went on the Glidden Tour, while on the trip his muffler clamp fall off.The Aries stainless steel pipe broke off at the back of the muffler. We had it welded back together, an found it is a poor quality
stainless steel IMO. Anyone else found this out ? |
Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler The only problem I've heard of is cracking from people tightening the clamp to the frame too tight to allow for thermal expansion/contraction, which apparently is greater with stainless than regular steel.
Steve |
Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler Vince,
The Aries muffler that is pictured on your site, looks just like what happened to dads muffler. I will not buy another stainless steel one again. It isn't worth the expense or the trouble IMO. |
Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler Almost every single stainless aries muffler i know of has broke off at the back. After so many of them breaking, you would think aries would fix the problem. My recommendation would be, if you have to buy another one at any time, to buy the non stainless one. It has the same performance, and over time it will hold up better. IMO. A friend showed me his stainless one after 20,000 miles and it was all black and discolored. It could probably be polished back, but who wants to polish their muffler all the time?
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Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler Someone should contact Joe Davis at Aries. He has been in the Model "A" business for many years, extremely helpful and will accept constructive criticism of his product. I have one of his "regular issue" mufflers since 2001 and haven't had an issue. I'm sure he would be interested to know of your problem.
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Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler I gave up on stainless antique exhaust systems long ago. Aside from the mechanical and metalurgy issues, they just sound funky. They tend to "ring".
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Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler You can take a new muffler or rewelded one and heat it with a rose bud in the
area of the weld to a dull red, then immediately quench with cold water too anneal the area. This should help with the cracking....this only works on SS! |
Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler I have stainless Aires mufflers on 2 cars and have driven them for years with no problems. your results may vary.......
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Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler 7 years on my stainless Aries and zero problems.
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Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler They only break because they are not mounted properly. The rear clamp has to sufficiently loose to allow for expansion and contraction. Not rattly loose, but sufficient to move if it has to. My stainless muffler has gone 27 years without the slightest problem.
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Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler I've had a Beaver SS muffler on my roadster for about ten years now with no problems, though I've been told (warned?) that the tack-welded seam will eventually rip open.
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Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler Quote:
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Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler Quote:
All martensitic and most ferritic stainless steels can be subcritical annealed (process annealed) by heating into the upper part of the ferrite temperature range, or full annealed by heating above the critical temperature into the austenite range, followed by slow cooling. Usual temperatures are 760 to 830°C for sub-critical annealing. When material has been previously heated above the critical temperature, such as in hot working, at least some martensite is present even in ferritic stainless steels such as grade 430. Relatively slow cooling at about 25°C/hour from full annealing temperature, or holding for one hour or more at subcritical annealing temperature, is required to produce the desired soft structure of ferrite and spheroidised carbides. However, parts that have undergone only cold working after full annealing can be sub-critically annealed satisfactorily in less than 30 minutes. The ferritic types that retain predominantly single-phase structures throughout the working temperature range (grades 409, 442, 446 and 26Cr-1Mo) require only short recrystallisation annealing in the range 760 to 955°C. |
Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler Depending on the Aluminum alloy you heat treat it to a T-3 or T-4 condition by taking an O condition up to around 500Deg. F for 30 to 40 min, then water quench. This makes it harder. To Age it to a T-6 condition it goes up to 900 to 1000 deg. for 6 to 10 hours depending again on the alloy, and allow to air cool. This is what I did for 5 years working for McDonnell Douglas in Florida. I never did stainless steel.
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Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler Quote:
Keep your tail pipe clamp loose and you will not have any problems. Joe davis aries muffler. |
Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler Quote:
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Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler Quote:
__________________ R.H.D. Author of Model 'A' Ford technical manuals. Supplier of good original RHD parts. Joe Davis, Aries Mufflers 650-279-6609 |
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Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler I have the plain steel Aries performance muffler and tail pipe on my Fordor and am very happy with it. The fit is good, the sound is good, and it seems to help my performance. I found that the stock clamp at the rear is designed to allow the tail pipe to move. The clamp that came with the car was not a reproduction of the stock clamp and it did not allow the tail pipe to move.
I experimented with a straight through exhaust pipe and tube headers, but aside from being noisy it was not any different than the stock exhaust manifold and Aries muffler. I think if you are racing and run up around 8,000 rpm, the header and open exhaust probably has some advantage. |
Re: Aries Stainless Steel Muffler If you like Stainless go for it but I have a feeling a steel one will do just fine a car that is not driven in road salt.
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