engine vibration
 

I have decided to pull my engine and check out why it vibrates so bad. It is so bad I can't drive over 40 mph without it making the entire car rattle. I still have the oil leak so I can address that too. I had a 29 when I was in high school in 1960 and drove 8 miles to school every day at 55 or so mph and it did not vibrate at all. I'm thinking it might be in clutch or flywheel area since I have to push the clutch hard all the way to the floor to shift without grinding gears.

Re: engine vibration
 

Has the car done this ever since you've owned it?

Re: engine vibration
 

40 mph was where the heavy vibration began on our coupe. It was still there after replacing spindle bolts, bearings and bushings.

How old are your tires? Have you checked the wheel and tire run outs? Our tires were 15 year old Firestones. A new set of American Classic radials and tire beads cured the issue.

Re: engine vibration
 

Brand new tires. Has done this ever since I bought it last October. It is not in the suspension, strictly rpm related. Does the vibration while sitting and reving the engine.

Re: engine vibration
 

The clutch should push easily no matter what type it is.
The vibration problem is likely related to the clutch/flywheel/crank assembly/oil leak.

Re: engine vibration
 

If it were me I would completely disassemble the engine . I would send out for balancing. The crank, flywheel, pressure plate, disc, pulley, fan, rods, pistons. If you don't you are just guessing.

Re: engine vibration
 

I will second what Richard said. Also check for a cracked clutch pedal lever where the pin goes through. That was a design flaw.

Re: engine vibration
 

Before tearing into the engine, I would make sure the front motor mount is installed correctly and the nut on the bottom tightened only enough to insert cotter pin. The front of the engine should move freely.

install new rear motor mount rubber correctly. Mount to engine bolted tight and the plate and rubber attached with through sleeves and bolts finger tight plus 1 turn. Install the cotter pins.

Richard
Anaheim CA

Re: engine vibration
 

Bingo on above

Re: engine vibration
 

Richard has some good points (post #8). All of the old rubber in the rear mounts is hard as shoe leather. Since you have decided to pull the engine, that would be a good time to replace the rubber and check the front engine mount. The original front engine mount, with the springs, works the best. Don't use the replacement ones with the rubber parts. If you have the Float-A-Motor mounts at the rear, do not tighten the bolts that go through the rubber pads. Just snug them up, maybe a couple turns after they bottom.

A counterbalanced crankshaft will help with the vibrations.

Re: engine vibration
 

After I replaced the radiator fan with a new aluminum balanced fan some of my vibrations went away!