distributor swap out question
 

My 12v 1931 Tudor had a distributor that lost spark.

I swapped it out with a spare distributor, and have spark again, (cranking with the plugs removed) but the distributor cam lock nut on the spare distributor won't budge and am gonna have to drill it out.

I would like to see if the engine will start with the spare distributor in place before removing it to replace the distributor shaft.

In essence, I can't check the timing with the replacement distributor at this point.

The spare distributor came out of a running car.

Is it reasonable to think the car might start with the engine at TDC and rotor at the #1 cylinder with out actually checking the timing since the now in-place distributor came out of a running car?

Or any concerns in trying?

Re: distributor swap out question
 

The timing could be anywhere. The chances of it being close enough to run the engine (without damage) is very slim. I'd either fix the distributor that came out (what was the problem) or get the screw out, even if you have to buy a new shaft and screw for it.

Re: distributor swap out question
 

You say are running 12V. Did you put in a ballast resistor or change the coil? You may have fried your condenser or your points may be pitted badly. Just a place to start.

Re: distributor swap out question
 

Put a new condenser in the original dizzy that caused the car to lose spark. No change.

Put in back up dizzy and now have spark with plugs removed when cranking, just can't reset timing due to frozen dizzy lock cam screw with this dizzy.

Re: distributor swap out question
 

Try putting some heat to the screw! Propane might work but is not a real hot flame.

Re: distributor swap out question
 

Thanks, Gary.....the slot was pretty "hogged out" when I got the distributor, and I've applied what feels like roughly 20 ft/lb of torque to break it loose thru various means, and don't have a suitable propane flame device at hand.

Re: distributor swap out question
 

It is messed up already, try an impact screw remover that you hit with a hammer.

Re: distributor swap out question
 

I would not suggest an impact screw driver that you hit with a hammer- the cast iron casting will probably crack and you will then have nothing but scrap.

Re: distributor swap out question
 

Did not think that through, do not hit

Re: distributor swap out question
 

Keep it simple.
Eye ball it. Crank engine over by hand until timing pin goes into the dimple, then look at where the rotor is pointing and at the points. If the rotor is in the proper quadrant the points need to be just ready to start opening.

Re: distributor swap out question
 

My money would be on fixing the original distributor. They just don't quit for no reason. Try a different capacitor (condensor) first as this is the simplest. Check to see that there are no shorts to ground by using your ohm meter. Put some new points in and adjust them correctly. You can test the distributor out of the car by using your ohm meter.

Re: distributor swap out question
 

There is one more possible ghost problem not seen often but yes it shows up. You could have an intermittent short in the ignition cable. Perhaps when you moved the cable to reconnect the temporary distributor the wires aligned for voltage transmission. For those following it is not a bad idea to be suspect of the ignition cable when spark or voltage is not present.

Re: distributor swap out question
 

I have had some success in the past removing distributor cam screws as follows:

1. Drive the pin out of the collar at the bottom of the distributor shaft and remove the collar to expose the tab at the end of the shaft.
2. Get out your set of hollow-ground flathead driver hex bits and find the one that best fits the cam screw.
3. Put a magnetic hex bit holder socket on a socket wrench with a nice long handle and put the flathead driver in the socket.
4. Clamp the tab in a vise.
5. Pressing down on the head of the wrench with your left hand to keep the bit from camming out, release the screw using the leverage provided by the wrench.

Re: distributor swap out question
 

Drill presses used as "presses" do a wonderful job of preventing cam-out. You need a drill press vise to hold the distributor body/shaft.

Joe K

Re: distributor swap out question
 

I have a bottle of powdered tungsten that I use in times like this. A tiny amount of the screwdriver blade and it won't slip. As a substitute, maybe some valve grinding paste?