|
1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . Well I ve been half way around the world ,went to hershey and now just back from Virginia dropping off Johns truck .
Started with what looked to be an ok truck . until i started working on it /got it back from the blaster of course . http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psbrnq0m0q.jpg this truck took some good hit and was filled with bullet holes along with bad work . http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psvpggvqfh.jpg and the doors dont fit from an after market wood kit that was installed http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psxu26s7ur.jpg rear crossmember . had brass, wood and bondo mashed into it . http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psia5brh5p.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps53aw8bsi.jpg test fit http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...pspblf4bl9.jpg |
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . everything sitting in place
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psxywvhtkq.jpg a nicely cut heater hole http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psyzuyiaw1.jpg this was the story of this trucks life ... bad gobbed on mig welds http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...pshk3u2gt2.jpg as you can see the back was also hammered http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psz4hpct1d.jpg cutting out bullet holes http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...pslicvhj2t.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psrofwsfyc.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psepbg7avs.jpg now time to build a whole truck http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...pstnrwy2nf.jpg |
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . Yes Flop, I know what you mean. We did a 31 for a guy that supplied a body in primer that he bought at a swap meet, you wouldn't believe how bad it was underneath and was actually twisted by 2 inches in the subfloor. Poor guy didn't want a full restoration and we fought that every step of the way, doors missed shutting by inches and it took hours with a portapower to get it in shape so the lesson learned is be real careful buying a body in primer. Your project looks much better and I know it will be done right. Good to see you're back by the way. Good luck on the project.
|
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . this truck was a tad bit of a fighter . wood was the biggest mess . and getting the doors to fit . Barry my new rule is if it comes with the doors not hanging they dont fit !!
full skins http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...pswtkpgfcc.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psr3rs36g9.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psgnbkvmwh.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps8sftkn1d.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psubjvlnbr.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...pshkqbespi.jpg we rolled out the whole panel in the english wheel then rolled the bead at th bottom http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...pskwxuf6ma.jpg all welded up http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psmckaoybz.jpg making cab corners http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...pstwwrzeba.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psysdkagyf.jpg |
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . door problems /wood problems
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...pslcdaf4qj.jpg repair video . click to play http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps2s4pznr9.mp4 got it http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps0wexu0ta.jpg heavy damage to the body lines . had to pull the inner out http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psgl0t1i0g.jpg floor rivited in http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps9ltu6mbc.jpg in primer no mud http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...pstppfnip6.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psnggg5mkd.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps0gkdptpz.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...pshtubhncw.jpg http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...psi2tuoqon.jpg |
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . Wow you do great work.
|
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . All I can say is DAMN!!!!!!!!! What a talent!!!!!!
|
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . Nice work. See how quick and easy that was.:D
Wish you were my neighbor.:) That's the reason I would only buy something that had good metal to start with. I don't have the tools nor talent for such repairs.:eek: |
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . Flop,
Nice to see a true Craftsman at work ! Marc |
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . Here in N.H. it's hard to find a cab that nice to start with.In other parts of the country people would consider what you started with to be junk.
|
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . Quote:
|
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . Gosh!
A virtuoso in A36 carbon steel. Joe K |
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . Quote:
Let me start by publicly saying nice job Flop (which he & I are friends on Facebook so he already knows I have already been singing his praises on FB.). Barry, just like what Flop just found out, I honestly believe that is the normal protocol for all these truck cabs. We were in the same situation on a couple too. One good thing is that the new sub-rails are now being reproduced which are much closer than what we were dealing with using Tudor platforms. Also, Flop is correct in that the wood's shape/dimensions are a vital part of making things fit, ...and often times the wood doesn't fit the sheetmetal which means nothing else wants to fit after it is installed! Again, Flop your customer should be proud of your efforts!! Below is one that basically collapsed on us just taking it off the frame. These poor cabs were not that strong to begin with, and they all require a lot of work to make everything fit properly. A 28-E30 cab is even worse!! https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...61&oe=54DE9BA1 https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...7b&oe=54D6F7FA https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...d7&oe=551B534C https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...db43f819c6fc2f https://scontent-a-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...63&oe=551C7A5D https://scontent-b-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/...db&oe=5520304B https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...9c1148b38353a4 . . |
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . I didn't know the more correct subrails were being reproduced for the pickup.20 years ago I had to buy Tudor rails,then cut them down to fit.I have another cab to do now.I've been collecting parts for it for 10 years now.I bought new Tudor subrails maybe 5-6 years ago,but didn't get around to doing it.If I can just buy the closer ones now I would rather.I'll have to scope them out as I'm planning to do that one this winter.
|
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . Nice job Flop!!!! You have amazing talent!!!
There must be something special in Pittsburg's water supply that gives you this talent :). How about sending some of that water (and talent) to me in the eastern part of the state :D. Seriously, I love watching you work your magic. Keep it coming. |
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . Hey Flop, just one question for you on the cab corner you made.
What method did you use to "roll" the bottom edge under the sub rail? |
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . Now I have to get my cutting torch out and make a new heater hole in the firewall and braze some decorations on the cab !
|
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . wow amazing! I hope mine turns out half as good...
Quick Question: I purchased a 28-29 cab for my AA thats in relatively decent shape. Some old repairs and such need addressed but its complete and structurally sound with a good gas tank to boot! Anyways several panels need replaced but lets take the cowls as an example: Did Henry paint all these pieces separately before riveting them together or was there any kind of primer/coating on the insides to prevent rust? How do you guys do it when replacing cowl panels/firewalls etc. Obviously there needs to be clean metal to spot weld parts back in but im hesitant about leaving bare metal touching bare metal at seams/joints... |
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . I was wondering the same thing as SeaSlugs.:confused:
While I like to be as original as possible, prevent any future rust would be my primary goal. |
Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive . Flop will come along and give his advice, but for us, we install panels and use a spray can of primer made just for this application as we go. With that said, most of those areas originally were not coated and did/do rust which is why we are replacing now.
A trick we have done is mix up a thinned batch of epoxy primer and pour it into the area after the repairs have been made. We use a paint roller tray to collect the excess as it drips away. Then re-pour in another area. Repeat until all hidden areas in the sills have been covered with the epoxy. This is a time consuming process, -especially if the body is not on a rotisserie. With a rotisserie, using a spray gun with a narrow spray fan is sufficient. |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:13 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.