Removing fuse holder
 

I have never liked the way the add on fuse holder looks. I have also heard they are prone to failure. Add to that the fact that no parts stores in my area even sell glass fuses, so I decided to relocate the fuse and switch to the modern style mini blade fuse.

I think this looks much better and hopefully is more reliable.

Materials:
12 awg mini fuse holder purchased online
20a mini fuse
8 inches of fabric wire loom
One heat shrink butt connector
One heat shrink ring terminal

Total cost about $8

Time: 30 minutes

First step was to disconnect the battery. Next I removed the starter mounted fuse holder, moving the yellow wire back to the correct terminal on the starter.

Next step was to open the terminal box, take the yellow wire off the post and connect it to one wire of the new fuse holder. The other wire from the fuse connects to the post in the box with a ring terminal. I slid a length of the fabric wire loom over the pigtail so the wiring looks less obvious inside the car.

Next I slid the fuse holder through the hole in the firewall and set it out of sight under the fuel tank.

Finally, I replaced the terminal box cover and reconnected the battery.

The engine compartment side looks original and the only thing one can see under the dash is a few inches of wire loom alongside the armored cable.

It is very easy to slide the holder out to inspect/replace the fuse if necessary.

Re: Removing fuse holder
 

Very similar to how I did it. Besides the engine looking original, the fuse is out of the elements.

Re: Removing fuse holder
 

Re: Removing fuse holder
 

The holder,, not the fuse. There have been numerous threads here which mention issues. It is in an exposed area subject to moisture, oil,, and vibration.. all things not entirely compatible with electrical components.. That being said, I haven't had problems with mine.

Re: Removing fuse holder
 

Just FYI, I use a circuit breaker in my fuse holder. Resets itself when electrical problem is corrected.

The issue with the holder is that too long of a screw was provided with the holder. I believe that has been correct quite a while ago but still should be checked.

Re: Removing fuse holder
 

I've used the glass fuses since the 70's,but I think the plug in fuse in the rubber holder is a better idea.They are rigidly mounted in a high vibration,high heat,exposed to the elements area.they do pop for no real reason.In the mid 70's I worked in a garage that had one of those Buss fuse assortments on the shelf.On top of that was a cheapo Cal-Hawk continuity tester.Every new fuse we picked out got tested,while pulling and twisting the ends.Add to that the fact that glass fuses have gone by the wayside,and are only cheaply made now,it gets to be a problem.

Re: Removing fuse holder
 

My shop has installed the standard fuse holders on cars for over 30 years. Never had one failure. Plus you can easily remove the fuse and it becomes another anti theft measure.

Re: Removing fuse holder
 

This a neat idea and I can understand why it was done . I have the starter mounted fuse on 6 of my cars and never a problem in wet and windy England . Some have been in use for many years If they look like getting crusty they get a little squirt of WD 30 . I put a cable tie around the glass tube bit towards one end a leave a tail to pull on . Even though sometimes you can pull quite hard I have never broken a fuse they are surprisingly strong .I keep a spare fuse or two with the cable tie fitted in the door pocket . Every time I leave a car parked or overnight I always pull the fuse so they are fitted and refitted many times .

John in Suffolk County England .

Re: Removing fuse holder
 

Beware of the bulk AG glass China made fuses sold by Harbor Freight…. Seen intact looking fuses that look to be good but have open circuits and are useless right out of the box. Always have to check them first for continuity with a VOM and then end up tossing ~ half of them away as being defective…