Flooding now?
 

I wrote recently about my '30 coupe sputtering and losing power a couple of times. As noted in my other thread about temperature and humidity, I pulled the fuel sediment bowl apart and found a lot of fine rust powder that came out with the gas. I cleaned it out and ordered a new filter, which I am waiting to get in the mail. Other suggestions were problems with the points so this morning I gapped the points at 019. I haven't set points before (my son always did that for me in the past) and it was a first for me. I got the breaker arm on one of the lobes of the cam and really couldn't see any gap on the points. I backed off the contact screw and used a feeler gauge to set at .019. I put everything back together and took the car for a spin. I thought the A ran good before but I could tell it was now smoother and any sign of backfire when I shifted was pretty much gone. This evening I took the car out for a spin and got down my alley when it quit. It would not start. I could smell gas but the carb reacted like it was getting any. I tapped the sediment bowl and few times after the car sat for about five minutes and it started. I drove back in the garage and emptied the sediment bowl again, thinking it had blocked again. I put the bowl back together and went for a ride and after going about 10 blocks the car quit again. After tapping and letting the car sit again for about five minutes, it started up and I drove home. The exhaust smells awfully rich and I'm beginning to wonder if the carb was flooding rather than being starved.

Before when I drove, the A seemed to run the best with the advance lever close to totally advanced and the GAV between one-quarter and one-half open. That's the way I was still driving it and my eyes are burning from the rich exhaust.

When I set the points gap, did that change things enough that I must now retard the lever from where it was before and lean up the GAV more than before?

It's cruise night on Thursday and now I'm getting nervous about taking the coupe.

Re: Flooding now?
 

If there was a lot of junk in the sediment bowl, there may be some also in the carburetor. Wouldn't hurt to take it apart and clean it, be sure the needle valve and seat are clear of any dirt, and check the float setting. You should be able to go down the road about full advance, but you can adjust a bit while driving to see where it seems to run most freely.

Also, when the car is warmed up, try running it with the GAV closed. I used to run my car about a quarter turn open, but have been running with it closed, and it does fine. Also better mileage I suspect.

Best regards,

Stew

Re: Flooding now?
 

Thanks for the advice Stew. I had been running the GAV between 1/4 and 1/2 open since that setting, and easing my foot off the gas, seemed to help cut back on backfiring when I shifted.

Re: Flooding now?
 

Also be sure to adjust the carb. Maybe try that first before taking it apart to see if it makes a difference.

Re: Flooding now?
 

Stew, the carb was new this spring from Dave Renner and has been running great.

Re: Flooding now?
 

I find when an engine has a vacuum leak and runs lean on one or more cylinders is when my eyes hurt. It also hurts my nose to breathe that exhaust.

Re: Flooding now?
 

you should gap the plugs at about .035... not .019....

Re: Flooding now?
 

Mitch, I thought I had read that .018 to .020 was the range to set the point gap. Is .035 the best?

Re: Flooding now?
 

SPARK PLUGS
you wrote in your original post that you gapped the plugs at 19

Re: Flooding now?
 

Sorry Mitch. I get it now after looking at my original post. I mistakingly said that I set the gap on the "plugs" at .019. What I meant was the "points." My plugs are at .035. Thanks for catching that.

Re: Flooding now?
 

I just corrected the mistake in my first post.

Re: Flooding now?
 

You most likely have a ignition problem. Maybe bad condenser, or wire going from upper to lower plate.

Re: Flooding now?
 

Thanks George. I have a new condenser waiting in the wings should I need it.